Oil Catch Cans
01-25-2015, 02:58 PM
#31
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 150
sorry I missed this post...the JLT was to small for my application. are you boostd? or N/A?
For a daily driver under normal conditions the JLT will be ok if you check it often. If you drive your car like I do, you will want a bigger can.
For a daily driver under normal conditions the JLT will be ok if you check it often. If you drive your car like I do, you will want a bigger can.
02-11-2015, 11:30 AM
#32
CMOC Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 19
I went with Moroso, here’s what I did for my catch can:
The following parts were required for the install:
Moroso Catch Can – 85477 (comes with a mounting bracket) $129.00
5/8’’ Black Fuel rated Hose (NOT water hose)
NPT to 5/8 Barb Fittings (x2) $6
Stock PCV Tube $14
15/16 Corbin style hose clamps (4 required)
I choose the Moroso catch can because it came with a metal mounting bracket designed specifically for 05-09 Mustangs. The unit has a valve on the bottom that is used to drain any captured oil blow-by. I could have used braided hoses and colourful hose fittings but I wanted to keep the OEM look under the hood.
The threads on the catch can were very tight, preventing me from getting the barb fitting adapters threaded very far into the can. So I decided to loosen up the threads on the can using a 3/8-18 NPT pipe tap (previously used to tap a hole in my intake manifold for an IAT sensor relocation project).
I still wasn’t able to get the fittings screwed in far enough for my liking. So I purchased some black rubber o-rings to cover the exposed threads. I coated them with silicon lube to prevent them from drying out or cracking down the road.
Here’s the unit all assembled. I made sure to apply Teflon sealant to all the pipe threads.
The metal bracket that came with catch can was made of bare unpainted steel and would’ve been a major eye sore. So I painted the bracket with some stainless steel coloured metal paint; that just so happened to match the exterior paint under the hood.
The catch can bracket assembled
I then attached the bracket to one of the strut tower bolts and re-torqued the bolt to spec.
Here’s the can mounted to the strut tower
Here’s the modified PCV hose that was added during the supercharger install. The stock PCV hose was much smaller in comparison. The supercharger required a much bigger hose (5/8th) to accommodate for the increased air flow.
And removed
For the hoses I followed the same procedure that I used for the supercharger install. As mentioned the hose diameter was increased to 5/8ths to account for the additional airflow. A black fuel rated hose was used for this purpose. The only issue with using rubber hose is that it can collapse under the heavy vacuum pressure created by the supercharger. The solution was to reinforce the hose with some solid tubing taken from the stock PCV hoses (the same method used in the whipple instructions). The existing reinforced PCV hose would be used to connect one end of the catch can to the intake, but a second hose was required to connect the catch can to the valve cover. So an additional stock PCV was purchased (Motorcraft Part# KVC166) to reinforce the second hose.
To modify the stock PCV hose I simply cut off the protective sleeve and the quick connect fittings
From there I measured out the length of hose required to connect the valve cover to the catch can (approximately 22’’). Then I cut the stock PCV tube in two pieces and inserted them into the new 5/8th hose where additional reinforcement was required. The stock PCV tube has a curve in it, so I made sure to position the curved tube where the hose would naturally curve when installed. Inserting the reinforcement tubing into the hose was by far the most difficult part of the install.
As mentioned the existing reinforced PCV hose would be used to connect the catch can to the intake manifold. The hose just needed to be trimmed down a bit (to approximately 11’’). From there I just attached the new quick connect fitting that came with the stock PCV tube using a couple 15/16th hose clamps. And that’s it for the hoses.
Catch can to Intake (top)
Catch can to Valve cover (bottom)
Here’s the original modified PCV hose running from the catch can to the intake manifold
And here’s the new PCV hose running from the catch can to the valve cover. The curved sections of the hose are where the curved PCV tubes were positioned to prevent kinks and to keep the hose from collapsing under heavy vacuum.
And that’s it. A simple modification that will help keep oil residue from baking onto the intake manifold, the intercooler core and any intake sensors. I drain the can every oil change and get about 1-2 table spoons of oil each time.
Definitely a good investment if you have a blower.
The following parts were required for the install:
Moroso Catch Can – 85477 (comes with a mounting bracket) $129.00
5/8’’ Black Fuel rated Hose (NOT water hose)
NPT to 5/8 Barb Fittings (x2) $6
Stock PCV Tube $14
15/16 Corbin style hose clamps (4 required)
I choose the Moroso catch can because it came with a metal mounting bracket designed specifically for 05-09 Mustangs. The unit has a valve on the bottom that is used to drain any captured oil blow-by. I could have used braided hoses and colourful hose fittings but I wanted to keep the OEM look under the hood.
The threads on the catch can were very tight, preventing me from getting the barb fitting adapters threaded very far into the can. So I decided to loosen up the threads on the can using a 3/8-18 NPT pipe tap (previously used to tap a hole in my intake manifold for an IAT sensor relocation project).
I still wasn’t able to get the fittings screwed in far enough for my liking. So I purchased some black rubber o-rings to cover the exposed threads. I coated them with silicon lube to prevent them from drying out or cracking down the road.
Here’s the unit all assembled. I made sure to apply Teflon sealant to all the pipe threads.
The metal bracket that came with catch can was made of bare unpainted steel and would’ve been a major eye sore. So I painted the bracket with some stainless steel coloured metal paint; that just so happened to match the exterior paint under the hood.
The catch can bracket assembled
I then attached the bracket to one of the strut tower bolts and re-torqued the bolt to spec.
Here’s the can mounted to the strut tower
Here’s the modified PCV hose that was added during the supercharger install. The stock PCV hose was much smaller in comparison. The supercharger required a much bigger hose (5/8th) to accommodate for the increased air flow.
And removed
For the hoses I followed the same procedure that I used for the supercharger install. As mentioned the hose diameter was increased to 5/8ths to account for the additional airflow. A black fuel rated hose was used for this purpose. The only issue with using rubber hose is that it can collapse under the heavy vacuum pressure created by the supercharger. The solution was to reinforce the hose with some solid tubing taken from the stock PCV hoses (the same method used in the whipple instructions). The existing reinforced PCV hose would be used to connect one end of the catch can to the intake, but a second hose was required to connect the catch can to the valve cover. So an additional stock PCV was purchased (Motorcraft Part# KVC166) to reinforce the second hose.
To modify the stock PCV hose I simply cut off the protective sleeve and the quick connect fittings
From there I measured out the length of hose required to connect the valve cover to the catch can (approximately 22’’). Then I cut the stock PCV tube in two pieces and inserted them into the new 5/8th hose where additional reinforcement was required. The stock PCV tube has a curve in it, so I made sure to position the curved tube where the hose would naturally curve when installed. Inserting the reinforcement tubing into the hose was by far the most difficult part of the install.
As mentioned the existing reinforced PCV hose would be used to connect the catch can to the intake manifold. The hose just needed to be trimmed down a bit (to approximately 11’’). From there I just attached the new quick connect fitting that came with the stock PCV tube using a couple 15/16th hose clamps. And that’s it for the hoses.
Catch can to Intake (top)
Catch can to Valve cover (bottom)
Here’s the original modified PCV hose running from the catch can to the intake manifold
And here’s the new PCV hose running from the catch can to the valve cover. The curved sections of the hose are where the curved PCV tubes were positioned to prevent kinks and to keep the hose from collapsing under heavy vacuum.
And that’s it. A simple modification that will help keep oil residue from baking onto the intake manifold, the intercooler core and any intake sensors. I drain the can every oil change and get about 1-2 table spoons of oil each time.
Definitely a good investment if you have a blower.
02-11-2015, 01:18 PM
#34
CMOC Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 19
I didn't add a catch can to the passenger side, it's just routed from the passenger side manifold to the air intake tube. It was my understanding that a catch can isn't required on the passenger side. The line that runs from the air intake to the passenger side valve cover is the engine's fresh air inlet. That is why you don't need to worry about putting a catch can or separator on the passenger side...it should actually just be filtered fresh air flowing into the passenger side valve cover. The PCV line that runs from the driver's side valve cover into either your supercharger inlet elbow or your plastic intake manifold if you aren't blown is the line that sucks harmful fumes out of the engine. That is the line that, if you don't have a catch can, and ESPECIALLY if you are boosted, sucks oil from the driver's side valve cover and deposits it into your intercooler, your throttle body, and can deposit on valves, foul spark plugs, and cause detonation (effectively lowering your fuel's octane).
02-11-2015, 01:28 PM
#35
CMOC Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 19
I've checked my passenger side hose a couple times and it always seemed bone dry with no visible oil residue (compared to the drivers side anyways). I heard a few people who had catch cans on their passenger side say that the passenger side can barely caught anything; a few of those people actually removed their passenger side can because it didn't appear to be doing anything. But it sounds like a few people on this thread are catching oil on their passenger side so I guess it might be warranted?
02-11-2015, 01:43 PM
#36
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 150
very warranted if you are boosted.
Im running 20 psi with my drivers side vented to atmosphere and running DUAL catch cans off my passenger side in series.
Procharger actually calls for you to plug off the drivers side in the manual. I went with just venting it.
There seems to be a different way to run catch cans depending on who you talk to. I go off of my own results, by running it a certain way, then pulling off the intake and charge piping and inspecting everything to see if its working. That's how I found out that one can alone wasn't keeping up on the passenger side...for my application anyways.
Im running 20 psi with my drivers side vented to atmosphere and running DUAL catch cans off my passenger side in series.
Procharger actually calls for you to plug off the drivers side in the manual. I went with just venting it.
There seems to be a different way to run catch cans depending on who you talk to. I go off of my own results, by running it a certain way, then pulling off the intake and charge piping and inspecting everything to see if its working. That's how I found out that one can alone wasn't keeping up on the passenger side...for my application anyways.
02-11-2015, 04:06 PM
#38
CMOC Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 19
The passenger side is essential sucking in air, when you’re under boost it could actually be reversing the airflow and pushing crank vapours out that side (thus warranting a passenger side catch can). If you’re not blown, I would say there’s no need for a catch can on the passenger side.
If you cap off the driver’s side all together as the Procharger manual recommends, then I would expect a lot more vapours would be pushed out the passenger side. I agree with 07procharger about using the breather instead of capping it off. I think it’d be a little safer to vent that excess pressure somewhere, but I am not as familiar with how the crankcase venting works centri blowers.
It’s really a matter of preference, some do a catch can(s), some do two breathers then cap off the inlet on the throttle body and some do a hybrid system.
When I replaced the stock passenger side pcv hose when installing the blower there was no oil residue in it all. So I’d say if you not blown, do the drivers side and call’er a day. Just my 2 cents
If you cap off the driver’s side all together as the Procharger manual recommends, then I would expect a lot more vapours would be pushed out the passenger side. I agree with 07procharger about using the breather instead of capping it off. I think it’d be a little safer to vent that excess pressure somewhere, but I am not as familiar with how the crankcase venting works centri blowers.
It’s really a matter of preference, some do a catch can(s), some do two breathers then cap off the inlet on the throttle body and some do a hybrid system.
When I replaced the stock passenger side pcv hose when installing the blower there was no oil residue in it all. So I’d say if you not blown, do the drivers side and call’er a day. Just my 2 cents
02-11-2015, 05:03 PM
#39
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 150
id say hook it up the way its going to work the best for your application. What Is important is to check the system to make sure its working, just don't assume because you are draining oil that its working, a lot can still be getting past the catch can. Inspect all the piping downstream of the catch can periodicity to be sure.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
