IRMC deletes done.
 

well, just want to thank stang_illuisions for doing theses up for me!!!rockon:
kick ass job man!
they look kick ass! should work great!

should only help me beat you this yearblah: J/King

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/IMGP0199.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/IMGP0200.jpg
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This is what they would have looked like before!
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LOL what the hell are they? must be a 4V thing?smokejump:

^The 4-valve uses IMRC plates which are Intake Manifold Runner Conrtol plates. Basically a butterfly for each intake runner that controls airflow depending on engine speed to increase low-rpm power output. Those look sweet Warren, are they custom made?

Warren your welcome!

Thanks
They are the stock ones but Warren took out the rod and butterflys, and I took them and welded them and ported them.

Looks good nice jobthumb:

Thankx man ;)

Good Work!!! thumb:

There is a thread on GTAMC about this delete, I think Warren should post these pics over there, so he knows what to do.

Not bad ... But for as makin warren faster not to sure about that

Warren, how did you (Or did you bother) get the bearings off each end of the IMRC's? I am having problems with this right now.

PM stang_illusions, or he will chime in.
i just took out the rods, he did the rest at work, as i did not know how exactly he was going to seal them up.

I got them out. Did a test weld on one hole. A lot of work to do these properly but I am working at it. Man is there a lot of meat that can come out to match the gaskets! I will have to check the intake to make sure it is nessasary. Ill post pics when I am done.

I'm not sure how good you are with welding..........BUT make sure you clamp them.
I had a solid 3" steel bar that I used for a backing plate and had 6 clamps on them so they didn't distort, One major thing about aluminum is it warps VERY easy with heat transfer.
The difference is..........

Mild steel:
when done welding, the heat stays in one spot and takes a while to cool.

Aluminum:
when done welding, the heat transfers so fast through the entire object it takes seconds then its not cool, ITS COLD.

That is why it warps so easy.
As much as I clamped it down, and did "ONE HOLE EVERY 15-30 MINUTES" it still moved a few thousands of an inch but not 1/64". If you do not clamp it and go ape on it, well your gonna make it move any were from 1/16" - 1/4" of an inch and that would really suck. lol

Also when filling in the hole use a back stop so you don't get any spatter, or any other unwanted in the ports, for the back stop you can use a piece of mild steel of brass........since aluminum will not stick to the fallowing. Before I welded them I also took off all the oil substances off by grinding it out first and the remaining with thinners.

I have all kinds of tips and tricks up my sleeve. lol

If you have any questions PM me and ill be glad to help as much as I can.
Good luck with your project.

Keith.

you must have some good tricks Keith .. I have seen your g/f and wondered what she saw in you... Just kidding man

If you only new LMBO..................smokejump:

of I do.. she tells me all the time... and thx for workin weekends..lol

Keith, I was close to sending these to you! LOL. I got all the holes done but I was a bit leary of the penetration. What I ended up doing is using a carbide debur tool and notch out the welds leaving only the hole plugged. I then filled in the recess with West Systems Epoxy and smoothed it out afterwards with a cartridge roll.

Yeah, I don't care what anyone says I would never put any sort of epoxy on the internals of my engine, "What if" the epoxy broke free from the material it is holding onto? regardless I wouldn't suggest EVER using epoxy "anything" in the engine.............NOW the real reason people say to use epoxy is because
A) They don't know how to weld!
B) There too damn cheep to get it welded and be safe for the rest of the pieces life!
or
C) Its quick and easy, and not time consuming.

You may post this on the SVT Performace Forum Because..........the truth hurts, and I know im right!.

Now my suggestion is to get that crap off and finish filling it up, yes it will take some time but do it right the first and you wont find yourself back to square one!

If you look at the pics it looks like I never even touched them.

Good luck man.
Keith

Yea epoxy is not a good idea maybe Kieth will do it up for ya?

Agreed 100%

I have bad news. The intakes on these cars are loaded with epoxy from the factory. Epoxy holds the intake runners in and is also on the upper tabs of the runners. There are even blobs of epoxy on the intake floor where the epoxy dripped when getting applied at the factory. 11 years later and the epoxy looks like new. Short runner intakes for these cars are also loaded with epoxy as epoxy is used to fill in the power ledges. 90% of IMRC deletes are done even with cheap JB weld and there are no reported problems. Proper selection of the epoxy is key. For the 200 degrees these plates will see the epoxy isn’t going anywhere. I am not disagreeing with you saying epoxy is better but I am confident either method will work fine.

This is just the dripping of epoxy from the factory, This is just run off on an unprepped area! The expoxy is still kickin. I do not know why you guys have no faith is epoxy but it is harder than a preachers diick and bonds like crazy.

http://home.flash.net/~ivc1/cobra/runners_removed_1.JPG

Are you using the same Epoxy Ford is using? Or are you using stuff you get from CTC and other leading stores?

Again just because ford uses it, does it make it right? If Ford really cared that much, don't you think they would have made a better casting, or ground down all the restrictions from the heads and intakes? Just an example but........

It is your engine, you do what you want and if you think its safe carry on. I am not saying your wrong since you do have a pic to prove it, and I did warrens car aswell.....that epoxy is a friggin PITA to get off.

But IMO its wrong!

I hope everything works well for you in the end, I would really hate to see something bad happen to you since your doing this all on your own or at least trying, I respect that.

Anyways good luck and let me know how you make out.

Keith.

I am using an epoxy from GM that we use in similar applications. Remember the holes are welded and I just skimmed a bit of epoxy over them. If the epoxy came off it would be a flake and as soon as it hit the combustion chamber it would burn up immediately. There is no point arguing because it won’t do any good. The fact that most people use Epoxy on their deletes and there are no reported problem gives me a tad of reassurance! LOL. As stated before, yes a weld is better. Will an epoxy still work? I think it will.

Why do you have no faith in Epoxies in general? You would be surpirsed at how strong they are and what they are used for. I think many people place epoxies in the same boat as a glue or RTV. The things we have used epoxies on would blow your mind. We have never seen a proper epoxie repair fall off.