junk
 

I bet out of everybody, I got the biggest peice of ruststang, I am about 2 seconds from putting camaro and gm badges all over it then maybe it might look good, I think maybe next summers project I might put a 350 chev engine in it then IT WILL run properly!, my car is pissing me off so bad it might just even disapear! POS JUNK CRAP, wont even idle properly, I keep pissing with the timming and its right on! still its garbage! I hate fords so much damnit! even a oily 267 gm 2 barrel carb that came out of a taxi or something would run better then this !!!!!!

Would a 300 shot of nitrous blow up my car? One shot would do it.

Sorry everyone I needed to RANT, now im kinda feeling better!, I need some help wont stay at a steady idle it bounces around like a peice of junk! It dies....the friggen release bearing is squealing like a ......then the rearend is howling like a wolf and its all getting to me now IM PISSED.....who has 4:10 gears for sale??? and what is my damn idle problem??

Sorry for the rant but now it feels good!

Thanks.

Feel better?

Yes a little bit for now till I go to the car.

I think your problem is the lack of good Mustang shops in your area.

your problem is that you don't know enough about the high idle syndrome caused by all efi 5.0s

try the salt and pepper fix http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=85
after you've cleaned out your IAC (you may have already bought a new one....never a bad idea....

if none of that works, just post to let me know.

Thanks Scones ill try that tomarrow....I NEED SPACE!.....need to walk away from it for a while before I go insane of brain racking frustration!

That would have its pros and cons........pro help there.......con wife..LOL

Great advice!

The Salt and Pepper shakes were causing a wonderful problem on my Town Car: It would shut off. The middle pin in one of them was corroded and caused my fuel pump to randomly shut off. It was exciting. The "fix" really does do wonders and it is a known problem, as the later Mustangs (I THINK it was 90) got an "extension harness", which had smaller ID female ends and larger OD male ends to help prevent the problem from occuring.

And just to elaborate on cleaning the IAC, if you can get some B12 Chemtool use it, otherwise, some carb cleaner and let the IAC soak with that stuff sprayed on the buildup in it, and then give it another spray in the morning to rinse the what should now be loose, crap and carbon off of it. This SHOULD fix it. if it doesn't, you need a new IAC.

What Overkill said. It also wouldn't hurt to clean the throttle body and check the TPS voltage should be close to .999 with throttle closed. Also hopefully nobody has been messing with the throttle plate adjusting screw.

There is good Mustang shops in your area you just have to go to the right one!

Ha ha.....Go check out Gary's Place in Colborne if u still have an issue next spring

You need to read this thread:

https://www.cmoc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=4493

I belive that stang's car is a 94 or 95 and the throtle body should have a sticker on it stating not to clean it. There is a coating on the aluminum that the carb cleaner will remove causing it to gum up even quiker

^^^that's why you should use Throttle Body cleaner, not carb cleaner.

the TB cleaner is supposed to be compatible with that clear coat.

I read the thread and agree with meister@steeda.ca. I have worked on over a 100 mustangs over the years and this definitely helps with idling problems. If you choose not to check it and set it that is up to you but for the 5 mins. it takes I will check and set all mine.

Captin Spalding you are right about the sticker.

The coating doesn't seem to help with the build up issue on the throttle body's so I would still clean it. As LX-Markham said The throttle body cleaner shouldn't hurt the coating anyway.

I am just posting what works for me everybody has there own opinion on what works.

Its not an opinion when guys that helped design the bloody thing state that there is a given "range" for it to be within in order to be viewed as the ECM as valid and whatever that base value is, is used as the "ZERO" reference point. Hell, you can even change that range with a PMS or TWEECER if you choose!

, my Town Car's TPS voltage was like .82 or something when I got the car, but it ran fine for 18 friggin' years that way!

I think we are getting away from what we were trying to do here and that is help someone with an idling issue. I know you like to argue so you win. I will still set my TPS the way I always have. I have better things to do than argue over something like this.

Who the hell is gone digging?? lol digging up OLD threads lol

Thanks guys for still tring to help....I cant try anything yet the car is sleep in the warmth.

may have to look into this myself...just for routine matinece sake, but if its low idle your haveing trouble with it might be the same problem i have right now where the outer shell of the gas line cracked and the thin flexable inner line twisted...lol

Lol. If you are still having problems, could also be a simple O2 sensor or a dirty fuel filter. Try that also.

Hahaha, I dont remember if the problem still presists or not LOL, I never did get to check the TPS voltage, if I remember correctly I think it was my brand new gay cap and rotor, because I didnt replace it with a motocraft OEM.

^I agree, if you insist on cleaning it, use WD-40 on a rag, which should not cause any damage. About the "salt and pepper shakers", I'm not really sure if that problem exists with the '94-'95 Mustangs, I've never seen it as a problem myself. From what you describe I would check for a vacuum leak, improper timing, a leak between the MAF and TB or a bad TPS or IAC motor (-IAC and seat could also just be dirty). Can you provide any more info? Have there been any recent changed parts? Has it been progressive or all of a sudden?
Also, what's up with the Ford bashing? Chevy makes good engines, but which is better could be and endless debate, as Ford, Chevy has their own problems, there's no such thing as a car that never needs repair.