One Block Too Many Options. Please Help
 

OK well it starts like this. I have an 1980 mustang coup. It has in it a 3.3 straight six. I am building up a 1985 302 and of course want as much power as i can get. But only power that will be good for streed aplication. I need to keep it under controle to some degree.
So here is some of the problems. Do i put on the 351C V2 heads (already decided against v4 because it is too drage strip and not street) or do i get a afermarket head that would require no adaption for my motor.
Do i get a 331 stroker kit or leave it the way it is. This question is bothering me alot. i just don't know if it is worth the extra money. i want a really good working engine but not something that is so close to the edge.
I already plan on changing the cams and rockers but like i said the two main problems are the heads and crank.
If people have information about these options and would like to help me from making big mistakes i would be very thankful.
T-MAD

You have to decide what your plans are for the car and how much will you be driving it. Once that is decided then you can build the motor to what you need. Oh also how fast you want to go.

Hope this helps!!

Hey Thanks for checking out my questions
 

well i would like my car to be a weekend worrier. drive to the party in it or just enjoy a nice day. that is where i get confused where do i stop doing modification to the motor.and what is too far.
T-MAD

there is no such thing as too far, especially since you are only using it around twon by the sounds of it. if you want to use a stock 302 block I would recomend using an 86 or newer....they are a little stronger than 85 and older ones. take a look through a summit catalog and read some build up in magizines. you should aim for 450-500hp at the most..these blocks can't handle much more than that, even with a main and valve train girdle they are only good to about 600hp. i suggest getting yourself a nice 331 long block from DSS or CHP with AFR heads and the ,aim girdle option....a very good bang for your buck proven to run hard and strong for a long time...

The 85 block is the exact same as the 86 and newer, there is no strength difference. As for swapping a 5.0 into that car, you should know that the front K-Member will need to be swapped as the 3.3 straight 6 has a specific K-Member that will only work with that motor. My suggestion is to stick with a simple setup. Going with Cleveland heads will require lots of custom machine work and a specific Ford Racing intake manifold. WIth the big ports and valves from the Cleveland heads, it would lack low end but have extreme top end power. I suggest the following: Rebuild the 302/306 (bored.030", forged dome pistons, 5.4" I beam rods, balance the assembly), upgraded SFI approved balancer, install ARP fasteners throughout, custom grind cam, Weiand Stealth intake, Holley 650DP, mechanical high flow fuel pump, your choice of either Edelbrock Performer RPM (2.02/1.6 valves) or if you're budget conscious find a set of used GT40 iron heads. Combine any combo with a set of 1 5/8" long tube headers, off road H pipe, and your choice of cat back exhaust. A setup like what I've described can make anywhere from 320hp (gt40 heads) to 350hp (Edelbrock heads) with a good power curve and more than enough power to have lots of fun on the street. The car will have good low end power with the GT40 heads, but much more power above 4000RPM with the Edelbrocks. For a custom grind cam Paul at PSP is great at designing a great grind, and he's local. One of the best people for a custom grind is Ed Curtis at FTI, I dont have first hand experience but have heard nothing but great reviews. Best of luck, and just out of curiosity... what transmission and rear end will you be using?
SS

Sorry Stang Sellar,
you seem like a pretty smart guy when it comes to most stuff but on this occasion you are wrong. Don't feel bad, most people don't realize there is a difference, let alone a considerable one. I didn't either until I came across this article.

http://www.mnsi.net/~ohreally/block_comparo.jpg

Don't believe everything you read. I've worked at machine shops, built many engines and there is no difference. Just look at the casting numbers on the blocks, above the starter. There is NO difference, I have an '85 302 block in my car and I didnt notice any difference in main or deck thicknesses anywhere. There is no difference in 85-97 302 blocks.
SS

I'm sure you didn't notice any differences...it doesn't mean that there aren't any. I'd be skeptical about the article if it was by joe blow off the net somewhere but it's not it's from the Mustang Performance Handbook, by William R Mathis...he knows his stuff

If the main webbing is thicker and the decks are thicker, I most certainly would notice a difference. Just out of curiosity, how many 302's have you built? Ever work at a machine/engine shop?
SS

Come on SS no need to get personal. It ruins the fun of rational argumentation. Once you start mistaking the person for the argument you are committing a terrible fallacy.

from what i read it seems like stang seller is the smartest guy on this site i think we should all listen to him
i might have to contact you when i do some upgrades do you have a shop :confused:

Dont take it as a personal attack. I dont quote from magazines, I quote from experience and knowledge that I've earned. If you havent built many (or any) 302's or worked in an environment where you would pick up such knowledge then you cannot say firsthand that you are sure and know it factually.
SS

Yes......... in Scarborough. And thanks for the compliments, not only am I the smartest I'm also the best looking! :tup
SS

Hey SS,
the way I see it I've postest published proof from an expert on the subject manner to back my argument, all you've done is said what you think you know from claimed personal experience. You might be right, but I'm not going to take your word for it until you can show me some proof. Simple as that. I've met a lot of really dumb guys working in machine and performance shops....guys I wouldn't even trust to do an oil change. just because you have a shop don't mean crap to me. I hope you don't take that the wrong way, its's just the way I see it.

Fair enough.
SS

Stang Seller,

On the blocks that are 86 and newer up to 93 that you have rebuilt [while doing a motor rebuild] are you saying the part number on the block starts out with E5 indicating it was made in 1985? [E-decade=80s 5=1985] If that's the case then a 85 - newer roller block is a roller block, and end of story.

Got a spare one lying around, out of say, a 89 or something the you could look at...? I've wondered if there was really a change in the blocks myself for some time now..

The last 85 block I have is in my '85, I will cross reference the casting number with one of my E7 blocks. I will eventually toss in a small '93 starter to clear my crossover pipe better so I can check it then. I'm quite sure they were the same. I am very confident that they're all the same, with no strength or casting differences through the years.
SS