need someone to explain please
 

I been trying to learn about waxing and can't wrap me head around this...

can someone tell everything i need and what the process is and what are the do's and don't's to waxing a vehicle.....

I'm not sure what I need, how to use it or what to look for.

i'm a compete noob to this but would love to get a nice shine going on this year.

If anyone can help that would be great... been trying to do google searches and got lost more then understanding what I need. :banghead:

Thanks

Step 1 - phone detailing shop

Step 2 - make appointment

Step 3 - drop off car

Step 4 - pick up car

Step 5 - pay money

Step 6 - drive away happy

Step 7 - admire shine, tell friends how hard you worked to get it perfect like that

Step 8 - repeat as required

lol ya thanks.... was kinda hoping to do this myself.

Ohhhhh, Ok, you're a handjob kind of guy.

Try this :
Apply car wax or paint sealant in the shade. If the product dries too quickly or sits on the vehicle too long, it may be difficult to buff off.
Always apply car wax or paint sealant to a dry vehicle. Droplets of water on the paint will cause the product to streak and it will be unnecessarily tough to buff off.
Thin, thin, thin! Apply the thinnest coat you can. If you want more shine and depth, you’re not going to accomplish it in one thick coat. It just makes the wax or sealant difficult to remove and streaky. Buff one coat off before applying a second extremely thin coat. Check the label to see how long one coat has to cure before applying another (usually 12-18 hours).
Poly foam wax applicators are the best for achieving a thin, even coat. They’re absorbent, durable, washable, and reusable. They’re also inexpensive, so don’t be afraid to throw them away when they get really soiled.
Buff the haze away with microfiber. A quality microfiber towel, like the Miracle Towel, will buff your paint to a stunning shine as you remove the wax residue. The static-charged, woven fibers grab wax residue so there is less dusting, if any. Microfiber does not shed lint and the tiny, manmade fibers polish the paint while you buff. Rotate your towel frequently to reveal a clean side. Keep an extra Miracle Towel lying around in case the first one becomes caked with wax.
If you do get streaks or an uneven shine, it’s easily corrected with a quick detail spray. Mist the surface with Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz or Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detail Spray and buff away the problem.

Machine Application

Select a foam finishing pad to apply wax. This pad is soft and absorbent, but firm enough to withstand the pressure of the machine. It’s perfect for any type of wax, even paste wax. A Lake Country gray finishing pad is shown to the right.
If you are using a paste wax, it onto the pad like you’re buttering a piece of bread. You can turn the jar of wax upside down and slide the wax out into a plastic sandwich bag to rub it onto the pad, or you can use a clean putty knife. If you’re using a liquid wax or sealant, dispense three 3” lines of wax around the edge of the pad.
If you’re using a liquid wax or sealant, press the polisher to the paint and the wax over a panel before turning the machine on. This will lessen the likelihood of splatter.
Set your dual action polisher to a maximum speed of 3. Check the label of your particular wax for specific directions, but generally this is the fastest speed you need to apply wax. the wax over the panel until it is evenly covered. Turn off your machine before lifting it off the paint.
Buff with microfiber. Again, the Miracle Towel is your best friend. Some products allow you to apply wax to the entire vehicle before buffing, but many do not. If your wax does not, buffing by hand may be most efficient. If your wax can be applied to the entire vehicle before buffing, you might prefer to buff by machine using a microfiber or terry cloth bonnet over a lambswool pad for cushioning. Microfiber doesn’t shed lint like terry cloth can, but the choice is up to you.

Scrub Down
Cars get dirty. But there's more than just dirt and rain spots clinging to your car's exterior. Airborne industrial pollutants, acid rain, dead bugs, tree sap and bird droppings can all degrade the paint. Modern car finishes are all covered with a clear coat to protect the pigmented main layer, but even this UV-resistant outer layer will last longer if you maintain it. Keep things clean and waxed to repel water and pollutants.

The same goes for your car's interior. That slimy patina of French fries, Big Gulp, sweat and dirt will eventually turn your interior into a primordial swamp. Shampoo the cloth seats to remove all that gunk. Now, forget what you think you know. There's nothing under your kitchen sink that's appropriate for washing or cleaning your car, except maybe the glass cleaner. Leave the dish detergent for the dishes, and use a proper car-washing solution. Clean the window glass last to catch all the oversprayed cleaning products.

Leather seats deserve a proper leather cleaner, followed by leather conditioner to replenish the skin's natural oils. Save the protectant for the dashboard. I strongly recommend against using protectant on the steering wheel and rubber pedals, because it can reduce your grip to dangerous levels.

Park in the shade while washing and waxing to prevent the heat of the sun from drying off the car and making water spots before you can dry them. Wet the surface beforehand to help dissolve the bug stains and loosen the dirt. Hose the salt and mud off the wheel wells and undercarriage.

Clean the wheels first to keep all the slop from getting on the bodywork. Rinse the wheels down, but wax them with the rest of the paint. Now you can wash the car all over with a lambswool wash mitt, drying it with chamois, terrycloth or microfiber towels. Save the diapers--they're too abrasive.

The gold standard in wax used to be hard-to-apply paste carnauba wax. You know: Wax on, wax off. Modern chemistry has reduced wax to nano-size particles, added synthetics and generally made wax easy to apply and remove. We also like quick detailers for everyday use. Follow up a quick wash and dry with a light spray of detailer and wipe down with a microfiber towel for months of protection from the environment. Final step: Clean up any water spots on the windows inside and out.

Agreed. Although the first post is alot easier and most likely the way I am going, lol.

To add to Apocalyse Pony's advice. If you are using liquid wax by hand, apply only enough to be about the size of a quarter to the applicator. This amount should cover about two square feet properly. Allow this to dry to a haze before buffing. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to cover a larger area before it dries too much. I don't apply any more of an area than a third of one side of the hood before buffing it off. And what AP said about the shade is critical for waxing any painted surface. The heat will soften the paint and eventually you will end up with swirl marks all over you ride from small particles getting caught between the applicator and buffing cloth. One other thing is to save yourself from grief, be careful when waxing near cracks, weather stripping, seams, or textured plastic. You will end up with wax in the seams that will be frustrating to get out or white streaks on the plastic that will be damned near impossible to get off without scrubbing. Good luck.

Thanks AP for all that and everyone else for your hints.

so next question is What do I need to pick up as far as wax, clothes, different step or products i should have.

Best wax and all the product you'll need :https://www.cmoc.ca/d-i-y-articles-1...est-wax-14248/

As far as clothes go, buttons, snaps etc can scratch the paint. Generally, I like to wax in the buff (get it?), but sometimes the neighbours complain about my nudity (they're all close minded prudes). So, second best choice for waxing would be a Speedo or a micro fibre loin cloth. That way, when I'm waxing the middle of the hood, I can give the fender a little rub at the same time. And, best part is, micro fibre loincloths are super easy to make, and reversible.

BWA ha ha ha ha