Very interesting chat yesterday
 

I had the Hemi at the Petro Can at 4st and 20th Ave yesterday having the gas tank filled and a luxury detail (39.99) and while waiting I started a conversation with the guy sitting beside me. Go figure (for the guys that know me lol) it turns out he is a scientist in the iol/lubrication field. We talked for 10 solid minutes and being the kind of guy that asks a thousand questions, did I learn a few things.

I learned that the average person can easily use Dino oil as long as it's changed at regular intervals.

cars like mine that require syn oil, use it. I was told Mobil 1 is more than adequate.

Not to start any arguements but he told me Royal Purple is nothing wonderful and the shocker was that Amsoil is best used in a jet (fighter) cruising at 60,000 feet due to the cold etc. The reason he told me not to use it in our cars is it contains ester and that = no good.

Basically he said buy a good brand name Syn or Dino and all will be good ie Quaker State Mobil 1 Penzoil etc.

You can argue with me but this is the first scientist I have ever spoken with and the above statements are his not mine :D

I use castrol.

LOL

He is right. You can use the cheapest oil on the shelf if it meets the spec and you change it often. I get Amsoil for the price of Dino oil so I ain't switching and mobil 1 isn't a real synthetic. It's a hydrocracked group 3 basestock which is derived from Dino oil. I am not saying it isn't good oil,it just isn't what it claims to be. If I was going to go back to Dino oil penzoil is great stuff and has a high moly count. Do some research on molybdenum. It is an amazing friction reducer. And you can find it at napa. Its a mineral that when heated and under pressure will fill all the micro grooves in metal creating a perfectly smooth super slick barrier so you actually never have metal to metal contact again. I have now put it in both my mustang and my chevy. In the chevy with a 100 liter tank I got 100 kms more per tank and the only thing I did different was add liqui-moly to the oil. It was gradual tho. The first tank was 40 kms more,the second tank was about 70 kms more then peaked at 100. And has stayed there. I used to get 450 per tank with mixed city and highway now it's never under 550. The mustang was a bit different. Right off the bat my idle which I tuned to be 550 went up to 750 and after about 3 tanks went back to 550 and I get 70 kms per tank better mileage right now. I have the motor apart right now because it spit a plug and the head wasn't able to heli-coil. My mechanic said he has never felt a cylinder wall that smooth and slick and asked what I had in there. I told him liqui-moly. Went I went in today there was a case of it on his desk. That's all I need to know.

Castrol guy here too.

i use mobil one ive always liked mobil one

I have done alot of research on oil since becoming an Amsoil dealer. If you mobil 1 fanboys want to save a buck mobil also produces wal-marts house brand of oil so if you don't mind a different label the contents are the same. And the only easily available 'true' synthetics,that come from a synthetic basestock with completely uniform and identical molecules are Amsoil,royal purple and red-line. Royal purple and red-line contain very high amounts of moly whereas Amsoil uses boron,zinc and phosphorus as their anti-wear agents. Amsoils xl line for higher mileage motors contain a substantial increase in their anti-wear agents however higher zddp content tends to clog the cats up faster but if you got no cats or you have them punched out that line is your best bet and if used consistently will prolong engine life. And even if you beat the out of your motor the xl line will last 10000 kms. And listen guys synthetics do not protect any better than a conventional oil they just last longer and if you are going to stick to 5000 km oil change intervals don't waste your hard earned dough. And for all the 2v owners the 5w-20 oil spec is bullshit. 5w-30 is you smart choice and if you are like me and rev the motor over 3000 rpm often a 0w-40 euro oil is in your best interest. I have researched this issue at length and I have learned that the only reason ford specs that oil is due to the CAFE laws,5w-20 is 2% better on fuel. However you can save that fuel consumption at start up by using a 0w- oil.for our Canadian winters a 0w-30 is a must too. Be good to your pony and help it live longer by ditching the 5w-20. Trust me. I don't sleep much so I read alot. And all those manufacturers calling their oils a 'full' synthetic aren't. The only easily available one are listed above and some specialty brands such as Joe Gibbs. There are others however I dint recall them offhand

My SVT dealer uses Mobil 1 for the GT500's so I will go with that.

That's what I used my last service but I read on GT500.com that Mobil 1 isn't recommended because it isn't a full synthetic.

I wonder why they would use it???????

Could be BS I'm not sure but I am going to do some digging on it.

The scientist I am pretty sure told me it's full re Mobil 1

Mobil does have a true synthetic line however I forget the name right now. And the dealer will use whatever is most cost effective and people recognize Mobil as a good name. I am not saying Mobil isn't good oil. Just that their running a deceptive ad campaign.

Well,

If Mobil 1 full syn is factory fill on Corvettes (and it is)....it`s good enough for my lil pony....LoL!!

I think so lol

ive used mobil full syn in all my cars even my cobra seems to be fine

^^good to hear boys

I use Motormaster (CT) Group 3 Synthetic. It's made by Shell
bobstheoilguy.com is a great resource for this topic.

And I agree as previously stated. Synthetic doesn't really protect better, just longer.
My Stang goes to sleep in December and wakes up April 1st. I'll change the oil when I put it away in December and again at the beginning of August.

Everett - I might do some homework on this liqui-moly. I don't like putting additives in oil, but I'll have a look.

Ok, so Everett, your telling me that I can drop the 5-20 in my 02 GT, and replace with 0-40 and have no major side effects at all?
Damn, cause I just replaced it with 5-20 lol

My new scientist friend did say synthetic does protect better at start up:chacha:

Ahh yes I agree (and forgot about). Which is another reason I like to use it.

I think the Mobile1 "Extended Performance" is Group4 full synthetc.
The Mobile1 "Synthetic Motor Oil" is Group 3 synthetic.

Your right oh8gt. The ep line is their only real synthetic. And a mod motor needs a 5w-30 at the bare minimum. Since I started dealing with AMSOIL and actually learning about what oil does and how it really works. Fords motors in australia are the same as here but they spec a 5w-30 there. No cafe laws. A 0w-30 or a 0w-40 would offer the best protection due to it's low cold viscosity which gets the oil to parts quicker and mod motors love to rev so a thicker oil wouldn't shear as quickly. Use whatever ya want,canola oil for all I care I do however suggest reading up at bitog. Bob is the oil guy

I was using Quaker State High RPM from the time I first changed the mustangs oil until January of last year when Quaker State for some unknown reason discontinued the product. Now I use Castrol Synthetic. I used Castrol in my other mustangs, nothing wrong with the Castrol product.

Brand names ftw as far as I am concerned. I change mine out at a maximum of 1500 k's so I figure I'm covered.

No offense but you're wasting your money. Even standard grade dino oil will offer OEM certified protection very well for up to 5000 kms.

^^^I figure at the one year point it's getting a tad old and 10.00 per month is not to bad an expense for oil.

Joe gibbs oil has a lot of zinc . I spent 3 hours at a Gibbs oil seminar hosted buy a fellow that has credentials and certifation that only a hand full of people on the globe have.
People tend to think that the main reason for a high zinc oil is for a flat tappet.Think about this ,every time a piston goes up and down one time it stops 2 times.
Also high lift cams and higher valve spring rates are putting a lot of strain on the valve train.Joe Gibbs did not invent this oil,It was initialy a special blend created for them.They were almost hand cuffed into taking on the product line or else have it go to another race team. Before they got there new oil they were losing 2 out of 10 cams on the break in dyno due to oil failure. Now they only lose 1 per 50. as well as no race engine failure on the track. Gibbs anual team racing budget is 100,million. I am in process of putting in a pro-charged Livernois stroker in my pride and joy 06 Shelby tribute gt.Gibbs for me

Castrol here.

AMSOIL once a yr change when i put it away for the winter. only pit 7-8000km on it a yr.

Castrol syntec here

i use the motomaster (CTC) synthetic oil. i also recently put some ZMax in. any thoughts on that?

^^ I stay far away from any additives......If you research it a bit you'll see that most of them have went through several lawsuits, due to sever engine damage, but to each their own. Personally I choose a good quality full synthetic oil, and stick with it. No need for anything else.

Check this old thread that I started a few years ago....


https://www.cmoc.ca/mustang-drivetra...ul-info-11991/