swap from 3.8 to 4.6
11-17-2009, 09:18 PM
#1
CMOC Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: port elgin ontario
Posts: 15
swap from 3.8 to 4.6
Can anyone give me any info on what i might be involved in, when taking out a 3.8 automatic and replacing it wit a 4.6 automatic. Trouble is, i can't find a 4.6 with an automatic. can i use the one from the 3.8? or is it a different transmission all together. if it is different, what do I need to look for? and what would i need for a ring gear. It's all going in a 2000 mustang.
Thanks in advance. Your help is greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance. Your help is greatly appreciated
11-17-2009, 09:38 PM
#2
CMOC Postaholic
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Kelowna BC
Posts: 1,454
here's a quck bit of info for ya to give you a general idea.. if you cant do the work yourself or have a donor car it's not really worth it... i'm not trying to be a nay-sayer.. if you're determined to do it.. go for it
just do ur reasearch first and be sure you're willing to do the time
just do ur reasearch first and be sure you're willing to do the timeI just thought I would write my experience with an engine swap.
Purchased:
2001 Cobra Engine/Tranny/Driveshaft with Passenger side harness computer and ccrm $3k
Steeda Triax $100 used (no needed if using stock cobra shifter)
GT radiator and overflow $160
Hydroboost with all lines an proportion valve $260
Cobra thermostat housing and thermostat from Ford $110
Hoses for radiator and thermostat housing $50
Cobra throttle cable from Ford $60
Fittings to adapt new proportion valve to V6 lines $2
Misc hose clamps, screws, bolts $25
JLT RAI $165
MAF $75
IAC-$25
SVT Focus Fuel Pump $110
O/R X-pipe ??? I already had it $200
Catback Exhaust ??? I already had it $350
I put the front of the car on ramps and blocked the rear tires, and set the ebrake.
I then started to remove all front sheetmetal, Bumper/fenders, and hood. I also removed the inner fenderwells. I then unhooked all connectors from the engine, hoses and A/C lines.
I then removed radiator/fan/overflow.
I unhooked the exhaust/clutch and removed motormount bolts, and removed the crossmember and ds. I supported the tranny with a floor jack.
I then removed the shifter.
Got the engine hoist hooked up and l lifted it off the mounts. I then lowered the floor jack to bring the tranny down. The engine and tranny were out.
I then started pulling the wiring harness/computer and CCRM. I pulled the old harness out and put the new one in, followed by the computer and ccrm.
Then was time for the Hydroboost. I unhooked the brake lines from the stocker. I then unhooked the assembly from the firewall. I then put the new hydroboost in only to relize that the rods were different on the brake pedal. I cut the rod on end of the rod off the V6 booster and cut the one off the GT hydroboost and welded the V6 end onto the GT hydroboost, elemenating having to change the pedals.
On the brakelines I removed the V6 proportion valve and had to get adapters for the v6 brake lines to fit the porportion valve.
I had to take the heater hoses off the V6 and cut them down to size because the ends were different on the Cobra Engine.
Then it was time to drop the engine tranny in. I got the engine in front of the car and adjusted the chains so that the engine was way high in the air and the tranny just cleared the radiator support if I lifted it up. I rolled the hoist forward and raised the tranny by hand to clear the support, after it cleared I let it down and walked the tranny down the transmission tunnel. Once I got the engine close to the mounts, I supported the tranny with the floor jack and let the hoist down to reposition the chains. I then worked the engine and tranny back, once I got close I lowered the tranny off the jack and removed the jack. I then pushed the tranny with my feet to get one of the motor mount bolts on. I put the nut on the motor mount just a few turns and went to the other side and did the same thing, the engine dropped right onto the bolt.
Then I started plugging stuff in. All of the connectors and put the crossmember in. I didn have to drill one hole for the overflow to fit my radiator support. I just reversed everything that I did when removing the engine.
Once all the fluids were full, I changed the guages and loaded the car on the trailer to take it to get the PATS reprogrammed. I took it to Ford and got one new key and my old key reprogrammed. The car started right up. I brought it home and started it up and it ran for a minuted and died. I tracked it down to a dead fuel pump, wierd stuff, I though that I had bad wiring.
I then dropped the tank and changed the pump. Once I got it started I bleed the brakes and burped the cooling system. Everything all put back together and took it for a drive.
Test drive the car hauls ***, 1st and 2nd gear break the tires loose with ease.
A swap well worth it.
Purchased:
2001 Cobra Engine/Tranny/Driveshaft with Passenger side harness computer and ccrm $3k
Steeda Triax $100 used (no needed if using stock cobra shifter)
GT radiator and overflow $160
Hydroboost with all lines an proportion valve $260
Cobra thermostat housing and thermostat from Ford $110
Hoses for radiator and thermostat housing $50
Cobra throttle cable from Ford $60
Fittings to adapt new proportion valve to V6 lines $2
Misc hose clamps, screws, bolts $25
JLT RAI $165
MAF $75
IAC-$25
SVT Focus Fuel Pump $110
O/R X-pipe ??? I already had it $200
Catback Exhaust ??? I already had it $350
I put the front of the car on ramps and blocked the rear tires, and set the ebrake.
I then started to remove all front sheetmetal, Bumper/fenders, and hood. I also removed the inner fenderwells. I then unhooked all connectors from the engine, hoses and A/C lines.
I then removed radiator/fan/overflow.
I unhooked the exhaust/clutch and removed motormount bolts, and removed the crossmember and ds. I supported the tranny with a floor jack.
I then removed the shifter.
Got the engine hoist hooked up and l lifted it off the mounts. I then lowered the floor jack to bring the tranny down. The engine and tranny were out.
I then started pulling the wiring harness/computer and CCRM. I pulled the old harness out and put the new one in, followed by the computer and ccrm.
Then was time for the Hydroboost. I unhooked the brake lines from the stocker. I then unhooked the assembly from the firewall. I then put the new hydroboost in only to relize that the rods were different on the brake pedal. I cut the rod on end of the rod off the V6 booster and cut the one off the GT hydroboost and welded the V6 end onto the GT hydroboost, elemenating having to change the pedals.
On the brakelines I removed the V6 proportion valve and had to get adapters for the v6 brake lines to fit the porportion valve.
I had to take the heater hoses off the V6 and cut them down to size because the ends were different on the Cobra Engine.
Then it was time to drop the engine tranny in. I got the engine in front of the car and adjusted the chains so that the engine was way high in the air and the tranny just cleared the radiator support if I lifted it up. I rolled the hoist forward and raised the tranny by hand to clear the support, after it cleared I let it down and walked the tranny down the transmission tunnel. Once I got the engine close to the mounts, I supported the tranny with the floor jack and let the hoist down to reposition the chains. I then worked the engine and tranny back, once I got close I lowered the tranny off the jack and removed the jack. I then pushed the tranny with my feet to get one of the motor mount bolts on. I put the nut on the motor mount just a few turns and went to the other side and did the same thing, the engine dropped right onto the bolt.
Then I started plugging stuff in. All of the connectors and put the crossmember in. I didn have to drill one hole for the overflow to fit my radiator support. I just reversed everything that I did when removing the engine.
Once all the fluids were full, I changed the guages and loaded the car on the trailer to take it to get the PATS reprogrammed. I took it to Ford and got one new key and my old key reprogrammed. The car started right up. I brought it home and started it up and it ran for a minuted and died. I tracked it down to a dead fuel pump, wierd stuff, I though that I had bad wiring.
I then dropped the tank and changed the pump. Once I got it started I bleed the brakes and burped the cooling system. Everything all put back together and took it for a drive.
Test drive the car hauls ***, 1st and 2nd gear break the tires loose with ease.
A swap well worth it.
11-18-2009, 05:30 AM
#4
Adminut
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Maple Tree, Branch #2 above the rope swing
Posts: 5,722
Not trying to be a naysayer either, but sometimes things are more trouble than they're worth. Depends on how much bullshit you can tolerate - my threshold is low, so a project like that would result in one of two things - a "For Sale" sign in the window of the six, or a second Mustang with a 4.6 in the driveway. Either way, a lot less trouble to just buy one equipped with the 8 already, and I have no idea about the transmissions, but at least I can admit it.
There's only about a million used GT's to choose from, and someone's always looking to unload one for a decent price. The site Classifieds are a good place to start. But then again, you could always seek information on an Internet forum and try to weed out which is valid information and which is a crackpot half truth.
Either way - good luck with that.
There's only about a million used GT's to choose from, and someone's always looking to unload one for a decent price. The site Classifieds are a good place to start. But then again, you could always seek information on an Internet forum and try to weed out which is valid information and which is a crackpot half truth.
Either way - good luck with that.
11-18-2009, 09:19 AM
#5
CMOC Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: port elgin ontario
Posts: 15
Thanks. I appreciate your feedback. I race late models at a local circle track so engine swapping, rebuilding and fabricating are not new to me. However, I've never swapped out anything this new or with computers and as many connections as these things have. I swapped a motor and trans in my brothers stang last weekend. we took a 3.8 out and put a 3.8 in. It was easy (plug and play). Done in 5 hours, running and driving. I enjoy doing stuff like this and just want to now what I'll be getting into and what I need before I start. It sounds relatively easy but there's a lot of combinations out there. If I can find a whole car, possibly wrecked, then I should have everything I need.
Thanks again
Roy
Thanks again
Roy
11-23-2009, 08:26 PM
#8
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: London Ontario
Posts: 92
A tko is an aftermarket 5 speed the is industructable.
I have switched several autos to manual (mustangs) its easy you just need the parts. Esp if your switching engines it will be easier to find the engine stuff for a stick than an auto .
I have switched several autos to manual (mustangs) its easy you just need the parts. Esp if your switching engines it will be easier to find the engine stuff for a stick than an auto .
11-23-2009, 09:04 PM
#9
CMOC Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: port elgin ontario
Posts: 15
what about the clutch pedal and reservoir. are the brackets and holes required for proper instalation already there in a car with an automatic? I know the brake pedal will have to be changed to make room for the clutch pedal.
where would be the best place to find a donor car? I've been searching around and can't find anything thats reasonable
I found a 2000 GT with an eibach spring package, chipped and a K&N on it for 4000. Sounds like a good deal. The guy that owns it is going to send me a video of the car this weekend. I just might grab it and give the one I have to my daughter. Haven't decided what to do just yet. Tha car I'm looking at is an american registered car and I have to get it imported even though it's already in canada. There might be a lot of bullshit involved in doing that but we'll see.
where would be the best place to find a donor car? I've been searching around and can't find anything thats reasonable
I found a 2000 GT with an eibach spring package, chipped and a K&N on it for 4000. Sounds like a good deal. The guy that owns it is going to send me a video of the car this weekend. I just might grab it and give the one I have to my daughter. Haven't decided what to do just yet. Tha car I'm looking at is an american registered car and I have to get it imported even though it's already in canada. There might be a lot of bullshit involved in doing that but we'll see.
Last edited by racin roy; 11-23-2009 at 09:14 PM.
11-23-2009, 10:18 PM
#10
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: London Ontario
Posts: 92
The holes are there, those cars use a cable clutch which is easy to route. It is easier to get another car but thats not for everyone. I've swaped them and I've helped people sell ther cars so they can have the combo they want. Whatever... check out ridesafely.com for american side donors, they are wreaks or theft recoveries. I just bought another 98 stang from there to use in our race driving experience. Since we never street drive the cars, I didn't care about ever plating it, so I imported it as parts only which makes it more affordable.
