Denso Iridium, What will these plugs do for my engine?
 

Denso Iridium spark plugs read about them, heard about them. Will they add anything to my car over the stock plug that is in there right now?

Car is not winter driven. Daily driver, raced on weekends. Forget cost, what or where will I see improvements if any? short term/long term? I will never add a power booster, always N/A.

Please, if I want to purchase them, I will search you out, I am looking for advice or feedback just now. Thanks.

They added 8 RWHP (dyno proven) to Venom's car in our club (03Cobra) after all his mods...I will be adding these next month...want to do a group buy...lmfao!!! j/k

For what they are, it's a very expensive way to gain very little, unless you are running alot (20+ psi) of boost.

lol, yea set me up with 4 for now I put them in the odd firing order sequence to see if they are better than the originals if they work good it may be h@ll on drinking my coffee on every odd plug fire. drum roll... and hold the taxes for Biz. lol

I read that they are really good for boosted cars like your friends and yours. Not sure on a N/A app though.

You can use them in a N/A vehicle no problem...but I would never put anything other than a copper plug in a power adder application

You say I can use them! Will they be any better over the stock plugs that I have now? Will I see feel anything if I switch in your opinion?

Most debates over plugs is usually copper .vs. platinum and I ALWAYS suggest going with Copper. The same theorys exist for Copper .vs. Iridium.

On a blower car, I won't tune it unless it is running a specific copper motorcfrat plug. On a N/A car I highly suggest it as well, but it is not as important.

Copper is a much better conductor of electricity than other materials, but at a cost: it wears out sooner.

My opinion,

Use a copper plug on an N/A engine and replace them every 15-20k.

On a blower car every 5-10K miles should be your replacement interval.

"Your opinion", that is what I was looking for. thanks for the info, Paul. :)

Watch the CT flyer, I picked up a set for my mach. 14.00 a pair on sale.

Cheers.

Were they Denso's or NGK's? Good deal either way. Thanks

Paul you might catch a bit of flack here?
I have 2 opinions based on Science and Realworld testing

1: Iridium and Platinum are not even close in comparison? So how can the same theory exist for Iridium and Platinum?
Science
First Platinum:
Kpsi:20 HV(hardness):40 Electrcal Resistance:4-11/64 degF 3120
sec Iridium:
Kpsi:159 HV(hardness):240 Electrcal Resistance:2-3/32 degF 4400
As a conductor Copper is not even in the same league. Here is the resistance of Gold 29/32. please agree aleast Gold is a better conductor then copper?

There is also plug design which is probably the most important part when you consider blown applications alone.

Quote
Advantages of the Iridium spark plug;
Because of the properties of Iridium, the spark plugs centre electrode can be made with a much smaller diameter than with platinum types (usually 0.8mm for NGK and 0.7mm for Denso), Gold or gold palladium and copper/nickel types. This means that spark plugs potential difference is more concentrated and hence less 'spark jump' voltage is required - this can be as much as 5,000 volts less than with standard plug types. Ignition is improved and less strain is placed on the ignition system. Benefits of improved ignition/combustion include better fuel economy, increased power/acceleration and especially better throttle response.

2 Realworld:

Numerous, numerous times customers have swaped copper to iriduim for high boost applications due to spark blow out with copper types. Yes with the right range and gap there was still misses/drivability issues problems.
Do a real world test 42cc/20psi at 35tho. use both plugs Iridium vs anythnig you want copper/anything see which one blows out first? see which makes it 2K.....

The best tuners in the World swear by the results of these plugs..Chev/Dodge Ford/Import it does not matter. We use what works and I would not be spending $12 to 15 bucks a plug if these did not work! and work GOOD! would you?

To all just feedback and nothing more.....................we are all here to learn from each other share our knowledge..I learn everyday! :cheers:



2.

I guess I was wrong about the iridium...no fault in admitting that. You might have me beat on the scientifics, wont argue with you there :banghead: and to be honest I have never personally seen the results of Iridium plugs. I use what i KNOW works time and time again.

But I do know that you can't find a better plug for a blower car....it has been proven time and time again they are the best plugs for the job..and this is based on real world testing..no numbers. That comes from me and probally the 5 best tuners in the world who happen to work/operate SCT.

I have seen too many issues on power adder cars with non copper plugs...

my father have vortech 95' 5.0l , autolite plug is the right plug for is 7lbs vortech ?

I only use Motocraft Plugs for all power adder applications....there are some MINOR exceptions but they are always copper and 1-2 heat ranges colder.

I would use a AWSFA-22c or 12c for that application.

Thanks for the advice :tup :tup

Hands down, best plug for boost application is Irridium. On dyno with Motocraft Coppers, gapped at .030" at 5800rpm @ 18psi the copper plugs fail to light. Switch to NGK Irridium plugs gapped at .030" 637rwhp stay lit right to redline. Easy descission in my book. On a N/A applictation, unless you are running high comp with pump gas, I would stick with platinum. Will last WAY longer.

I guess everyone has their own opinion on what works. This is good, because without opinion and options what would this world be? We both provide great results with different combinations...that is what this indsutry needs...choice :cheers:

We have built cars from 300-800rwhp and used coppers with no problems. Same goes for Jerry W, Chris J and the Entire JMS team, Don Lasota (all the big boys). The car's that came to me with Iridium plugs, I did not like how the ran and reacted.

Maybe one day I will give a set of iridiums a try in my cobra. :tup

As far as Plat's lasting longer, they will. But I say get over the extra cost, which is minimal and use a copper plug.

Copper is a better conductor of electricity than platinum, but at a cost....it wears out faster. Going fast takes money...if you want the motor to run well all the time these things need to be done.

2003 Mach 1 The engine makes use of a 10.1:1 compression ratio and has specially calibrated camshafts.....

stay with what I got or switch to Iridium? Thanks

Venom is our Club has the dyno sheet to show the difference between copper and Iridium in his 03 Cobra...there was a gain of 8RWHP from the Iridium plug...now keep in mind they were cresting the 500rwhp mark...but he's convinced...they spent hrs on the dyno trying different applications.

I am running the AWSFA12C plugs...just ordered a new set today, and I have had no troubles at all in my Vortech blown GT.

These are the 2 steps colder than stock.
~Darren

I am also currectly running copper Motorcrafts but when I increase the Boost to 14PSI on my Kenne Bell I Want the Denso Iridiums in there.
I already have a set of one step colder waiting to be installed!!

I'm gonna try one more time.lol

Will they do anything better to my "N/A" Mach1? Thanks.:)

I had Standard heat range ones in my 4.6 2V when it was N/A and the pedal response was better and fuel mileage improved a little.

Thank you very much. I appreciate the response. 2v or 4v probally react the same N/A. Thanks again.

Not Denso, I bought them just after I put the car away. NGK I think... it's been so long.

Not sure what the factory plugs are?

But if I recall from a previous vehicle when I put in platinum plugs I felt a difference so I'm sure there will be a diiference when these go in.

Will let you know. I'll leave the old plugs in for the first week then swap then out.

You'll have to wait till April :cry2:

Heres some more info...:

Testimonials:
http://www.mach1mustang.org/vbulleti...hlight=iridium

Heat ranges:
http://www.accufabracing.com/denso_2.htm
:cheers:

Hey Greg, your car would actually only need a 1 step colder plug because of the efficency of the 4V combustion chamber...you can actually go with too cold of a plug. 2V's and 4V's react very differently because of combustion chamber design. Stick with a 22 heat range plug such as NGK TR6's or AWSFA 22C's, which are great. Autolite also makes great plugs in the 22 heat range. I am happy to help if you have any questions.

On a N/A car I would gap them at .050 and a blower car I would gap them between .030 and .035 and on higher boost car's (500+ rwhp) between .026-.028

What is a colder plug for a 90 5.0? I am using NGK UR55. I assume these are 1 range colder than stock.