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-   -   IRMC deletes done. (https://www.cmoc.ca/4-6l-4v-3/irmc-deletes-done-7739/)

White_Snake 02-03-2007 06:00 PM


Originally Posted by NXGHOST (Post 73261)
Warren, how did you (Or did you bother) get the bearings off each end of the IMRC's? I am having problems with this right now.

PM stang_illusions, or he will chime in.
i just took out the rods, he did the rest at work, as i did not know how exactly he was going to seal them up.

NXGHOST 02-03-2007 10:47 PM

I got them out. Did a test weld on one hole. A lot of work to do these properly but I am working at it. Man is there a lot of meat that can come out to match the gaskets! I will have to check the intake to make sure it is nessasary. Ill post pics when I am done.

Stang Illusions 5.0L 02-04-2007 06:34 PM


Originally Posted by NXGHOST (Post 73328)
I got them out. Did a test weld on one hole. A lot of work to do these properly but I am working at it. Man is there a lot of meat that can come out to match the gaskets! I will have to check the intake to make sure it is necessary. Ill post pics when I am done.

I'm not sure how good you are with welding..........BUT make sure you clamp them.
I had a solid 3" steel bar that I used for a backing plate and had 6 clamps on them so they didn't distort, One major thing about aluminum is it warps VERY easy with heat transfer.
The difference is..........

Mild steel:
when done welding, the heat stays in one spot and takes a while to cool.

Aluminum:
when done welding, the heat transfers so fast through the entire object it takes seconds then its not cool, ITS COLD.

That is why it warps so easy.
As much as I clamped it down, and did "ONE HOLE EVERY 15-30 MINUTES" it still moved a few thousands of an inch but not 1/64". If you do not clamp it and go ape on it, well your gonna make it move any were from 1/16" - 1/4" of an inch and that would really suck. lol

Also when filling in the hole use a back stop so you don't get any spatter, or any other unwanted in the ports, for the back stop you can use a piece of mild steel of brass........since aluminum will not stick to the fallowing. Before I welded them I also took off all the oil substances off by grinding it out first and the remaining with thinners.

I have all kinds of tips and tricks up my sleeve. lol

If you have any questions PM me and ill be glad to help as much as I can.
Good luck with your project.

Keith.

MID LIFE CRISIS 02-05-2007 12:24 PM

you must have some good tricks Keith .. I have seen your g/f and wondered what she saw in you... Just kidding man

Stang Illusions 5.0L 02-05-2007 12:52 PM


Originally Posted by MID LIFE CRISIS (Post 73446)
you must have some good tricks Keith .. I have seen your g/f and wondered what she saw in you... Just kidding man

If you only new LMBO..................smokejump:

MID LIFE CRISIS 02-05-2007 02:30 PM

of I do.. she tells me all the time... and thx for workin weekends..lol

NXGHOST 02-10-2007 09:43 AM

Keith, I was close to sending these to you! LOL. I got all the holes done but I was a bit leary of the penetration. What I ended up doing is using a carbide debur tool and notch out the welds leaving only the hole plugged. I then filled in the recess with West Systems Epoxy and smoothed it out afterwards with a cartridge roll.

Stang Illusions 5.0L 02-10-2007 09:06 PM

Yeah, I don't care what anyone says I would never put any sort of epoxy on the internals of my engine, "What if" the epoxy broke free from the material it is holding onto? regardless I wouldn't suggest EVER using epoxy "anything" in the engine.............NOW the real reason people say to use epoxy is because
A) They don't know how to weld!
B) There too damn cheep to get it welded and be safe for the rest of the pieces life!
or
C) Its quick and easy, and not time consuming.

You may post this on the SVT Performace Forum Because..........the truth hurts, and I know im right!.

Now my suggestion is to get that crap off and finish filling it up, yes it will take some time but do it right the first and you wont find yourself back to square one!

If you look at the pics it looks like I never even touched them.

Good luck man.
Keith

Terminal Velocity 02-10-2007 10:14 PM


Originally Posted by NXGHOST (Post 73793)
Keith, I was close to sending these to you! LOL. I got all the holes done but I was a bit leary of the penetration. What I ended up doing is using a carbide debur tool and notch out the welds leaving only the hole plugged. I then filled in the recess with West Systems Epoxy and smoothed it out afterwards with a cartridge roll.

Yea epoxy is not a good idea maybe Kieth will do it up for ya?

FlIpMoDe 02-10-2007 10:45 PM


Originally Posted by Stang Illusions 5.0L (Post 73845)
Yeah, I don't care what anyone says I would never put any sort of epoxy on the internals of my engine, "What if" the epoxy broke free from the material it is holding onto? regardless I wouldn't suggest EVER using epoxy "anything" in the engine.............NOW the real reason people say to use epoxy is because
A) They don't know how to weld!
B) There too damn cheep to get it welded and be safe for the rest of the pieces life!
or
C) Its quick and easy, and not time consuming.

You may post this on the SVT Performace Forum Because..........the truth hurts, and I know im right!.

Now my suggestion is to get that crap off and finish filling it up, yes it will take some time but do it right the first and you wont find yourself back to square one!

If you look at the pics it looks like I never even touched them.

Good luck man.
Keith


Agreed 100%


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