Gears
08-29-2006, 03:11 PM
#13
I've done them, it's a serious PITA, and to get them so they don't howl is a fine art that takes practice. I've got a buddy that's prolly done about 300 sets now, he charges a flat rate of $200 plus parts. I got my 3.73s and all the labout for $300 and conside it money well spent.
08-29-2006, 06:21 PM
#16
Originally Posted by fabs_4000
why? was it a disaster? :
lets just say he has to turn the stereo up real loud to drowned the whine from his gears :1:
08-30-2006, 12:55 AM
#17
Well I thought I could handle it and I attempted it and failed now my gears are winding really loud about 70km/h, I suggest dont do it, you need this special tool to check the heel and toe it has to be perfect, just pay the money dont do what I did. Good luck :2:
08-30-2006, 07:33 AM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: hamilton
Posts: 121
Actually the only special tool you need is to check the pinion depth. However the shim that is placed behind the pinion bearing is to compensate for machining tolerances when the housing is machined. That being said if when you take the old gear's out and remove that bearing the shim that is there is usually a good place to start.The new gears should come with some sort of marking(asuming there frpp gear's)this will tell you to add or subtract shim based on that # +/- .001 or .002. Once the pinion is set and you put the ring gear back in you need a dial indicator an magnetic base. Something that you should have if you are going to do anything from checking crankshaft end play to degreing camshaft's. Normally the side shim's from the old gear set will be fine but this need's to be checked you will need to see .008 to .010 backlash for new gear's and .012 to .015 for used gear's :thumb1:
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