JuMPy

Where you get this, I have no idea. Surging idle is not because you mix and matched parts, its because the parts you put in, are not matched to the tune that you have, or an indication of faulty sensors.

Once again, I have no clue where you get this. I have, and have ported plenty (dozens) of stock intakes to know the factory stock intake has a port much smaller then even the stock head. you can remove a massive amount of material in the stock intake before the intake port becomes larger the the head port. Porting a stock intake is a very cheap way to increase performance. Aftermarket intakes will cost you hundredes of dollars (even used), ported stock intakes will not. I have also done a ton of track testing to know that ported stock intake WILL increase the performace on a 5.0 HO with stock E7 heads, and will do the same as an after market intake on a stock set-up, and I have also tested a stock ported intake set up when matched to better flowing heads to support a 5 mph gain in the 1/4 mile over a stock combination. In the 3400 lbs car that it ran in, that equates to ruffly 50 hp ....... not bad for junk IMO

NOW with that said, the stock intake is no match to an after market intake once heads and cams start going in. When compared to street intakes, the runners are just to long, and the plenum volume to small to support big gains over 4800 rpm.

But please don't start jabbering about stock intakes, when you don't have all the facts. NOT everyone with a mustang stuffs the engine bays with a bazzilion dollars worth of aftermarket goodies......most remain pretty stock.

Crazyone

Why you getting so Jumpy? Lol. Seriously dude I was just offering my opinion, just because it does not match up with yours does not mean you need to rip it. Sorry I did not type for hours and go into detail. In no way was I ripping you either so read my post again. I will tell you one thing, paying for someone to port a stock lower is a waste of time and money. If you can do the work yourself then fine. But if he is going to pay for someone ...ie yourself to port a stock lower he might as well buy an aftermarket piece. Secondly, when you begin to change parts without tuning you run into issues with driveability. I guess I forgot to say tuning last post. I would rather do all my mods at once and spend a few hours at a reputable dyno facility to ensure all was well. Maybe my attitude in this area is one reason my car was always ready to run unlike most fools in woodbridge who hung out all night for the coffee.

Lastly, my car ran 11.16 with stock heads, stock intake, street tire at Cayuga once, I too know how to go fast with stock parts. Give or take some spray.....

Next time, try to remember we all have opinions, and we are here to share them with each other.

JuMPy

opinions are fair....I never fault someone if theres is different then mine. But the facts should be right. Scaring someone off on idea with false facts is not right. Not just for the person posting, but everyone else reading to learn. I'm a stickler for that sort of stuff..... sorry for the 'tude.

As for pricing, yes I do port stock lowers, but I will tell you this, I do a very complete job, but my pricing is a fraction of the cost of an aftermarket intake.......I don't post pricing, but lets just say it is "fair market value"

Edit: Oh ya forgot to say...good one on the name thing (touche), thats actually pretty funny ....lol

Scones

iTrader: (2)

you want to learn a little something about the potential of the stock intake take a look at Tmoss' site at http://www.tmossporting.com/Home.aspx

just for anyone that is interested. there's lots of tech, flow, dyno, and testemonial info there....

Stang Seller

Well, I guess ALL those guys through the late 80's and the entire 90's that modded their 5.0s all had driveability problems and stalled out at every light. Its comments like these that annoy me, no offense to you but it seems that many "newcomers" to the Mustang performance game are brainwashed by this whole "tuning" phenomena. People had been driving 10 second Stangs running on stock unmodified electronics for years and years, both on the street and at the track. I've put together many a Fox Mustang, and 99% of them ran great with no problems. There were the odd few, but I've seen Stangs with stock ported heads, box stock aluminum heads and race ported aluminum heads run reliably and consistently with no driveability issues. Mostly the OBD cars start to get goofy once you start modding them, but I have yet to see a MAF equipped fox 5.0 have problems just from a headswap. Tuning is NOT a necessity on any application, its a luxury (with safety in mind).
SS

Crazyone

I'm not new to this game and I disagree with your opinion StangSeller. Having said that you are entitled to your opinion as am I.

Do you know how many Mass Air units that allegedly come calibrated for a certain injector are a waste of time? I guess you have been lucky in your experiences. I have worked on 9 sec street cars that ran great as well, but only after they were fiddled with for a bit. By adding mods and not dyno tuning you are risking possible failures. You are also cheating yourself out of the hard earned dollars that these mods and their performance gains could offer you. This cannot be debated. Why else would professional race teams spend millions of dollars, miles, and hours testing new components?

Crazyone

Hmmmm just noticed a guy was having issues after installing a exhaust system on his 85 GT. His idle is different and the car chugs on the highway. Please see his thread in the 5.0 tech category and offer him any advice you might have. It should have just bolted on with no driveability issues, shouldn't it have. I don't know, I must be an annoying newbie and an enormous smart ***. :biggrin:

JuMPy

Yes it should have.........and if you keep replying with childish replies like that I will agree with you.

Old School

iTrader: (1)

While we are on the topic of intakes and surging, I have a problem with mine.

Everytime I push the gas pedal down and up, the engine rpm surges up and down. Will putting a ported and polished shifter ball help this problem?

Or do I need to port match my lower stick to help the carburetor choke open sooner?

thanks in advance

O/S

JuMPy

yes, maybe...and your welcome