Is it nomal to run this hot?
07-19-2005, 12:51 PM
#11
Originally Posted by divemaster
My 94gt runs on the high side of nomal when i am in traffic around town.The fan comes on every time but it is not until the guage hits around the "A" in normal.On the highway it runs alot cooler around the "O".I need a guage with degrees for starters and i'm gonna change the water pump for peace of mind but is there any other reason for such a variation in temp.I have a 5.0L in my F-250 but it always runs cooler.Any ideas would be appreciated.
we can do this for you dont hesitate to call 1 866 913 boss
07-19-2005, 01:02 PM
#13
Originally Posted by TURBOO446
Can you guys re-program the computers as well for bigger injectors and different cam/heads? Have to go to mass air for the heads/cam/ intake and injectors(24lbs).
Steve
Steve
07-19-2005, 01:20 PM
#15
Originally Posted by TURBOO446
Can i get your website ?
Steve
Steve
07-20-2005, 01:44 AM
#16
The EEC likes to seem the motor at at least 180 degrees, Closed Loop kicks in at about 170 or so, depending on the year of the ECM. The STOCK thermostat for these cars is the 190-ish one (194 I think) so it running around the 200 degree mark is just fine.
The stock gauge is WAY off, I found that just changing senders on mine (on the stock gauge) would give me a completely different temp. Now that I've installed an Autometer temp gauge, I was able to set my electric fan to come on at about 190-195 with my 180 T-stat.
Remember, run your motor too cold and sludge and crap build up inside it, as well as Carbon accumulates......the motor is designed to run between 190-200-ish, so let it be there.
Get a real temp gauge and go from there, I doubt you are actually having any real issue whatsoever.
On a side note, Water Wetter did nothing for my actual operating temp (controlled by the fan controller of course) but it did seem to make my cooling system slightly more efficient, the fan cycles less often.
Also, UnderDrive pulleys (with an electric fan) won't hurt your operating temperature. Now, with a clutch fan...yes, because the fan will be spinning slower, but with an electric fan, underdriving the water pump gives the coolant more dwell time in the radiator and actually helps the cooling. Remember, your thermostat is a RESTRICTOR as well, if your coolant were to fly through your motor, it wouldn't cool, it needs dwell time in order to remove the heat from the block and dissipate it through the rad. That is part of the function of the thermostat, to restrict coolant flow and provide dwell time.
The stock gauge is WAY off, I found that just changing senders on mine (on the stock gauge) would give me a completely different temp. Now that I've installed an Autometer temp gauge, I was able to set my electric fan to come on at about 190-195 with my 180 T-stat.
Remember, run your motor too cold and sludge and crap build up inside it, as well as Carbon accumulates......the motor is designed to run between 190-200-ish, so let it be there.
Get a real temp gauge and go from there, I doubt you are actually having any real issue whatsoever.
On a side note, Water Wetter did nothing for my actual operating temp (controlled by the fan controller of course) but it did seem to make my cooling system slightly more efficient, the fan cycles less often.
Also, UnderDrive pulleys (with an electric fan) won't hurt your operating temperature. Now, with a clutch fan...yes, because the fan will be spinning slower, but with an electric fan, underdriving the water pump gives the coolant more dwell time in the radiator and actually helps the cooling. Remember, your thermostat is a RESTRICTOR as well, if your coolant were to fly through your motor, it wouldn't cool, it needs dwell time in order to remove the heat from the block and dissipate it through the rad. That is part of the function of the thermostat, to restrict coolant flow and provide dwell time.
