Battery relocation help
06-03-2012, 10:41 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: airdrie
Posts: 193
Battery relocation help
Hey guys I just recently had an issue and was looking for alittle help I have relocated an optima battery to the trunk of my car and ended up having the battery overheat (destroying the battery and spraying battery acid all over my trunk). What I did was last season I mounted the battery into my trunk using an after market optima battery tray and I am just looking for some guidance if I did something wrong or if it was just a bad battery. I have 0 gauge wiring running from the positive to the front of the car to a distribution block powering everything. Then all my grounds from the front of the engine are grounded directly onto the frame. Then I have a 4 gauge ground running from the battery to the panel on the side of my trunk. I do have a 220 amp alternator so I wasn't sure if I was sending to much power to the battery or if I had even wired this up properly at all. Any help here would be much appreciated. I ended up being stranded on the side of the road and sleeping in my car and I don't really want to do that again 
Last edited by wannabesaleen281; 06-03-2012 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Iphone autocorrect
07-24-2012, 11:08 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Rocky Mountain House
Posts: 52
Yes. You will want to run a fused wire from the alternator straight to the battery. you will need the fuse and the wire to handle the full power of your alternator.
You need to use a battery meant to be used inside, it will have a vent line for it that you run to the outside of the car.
As for too much power, 220A is the max Amps. Your regulator should keep the voltage in range. Only just after starting the car should the charging Amps be High.
When I remote mount batteries I run a heavy cable to the car's main ground point from the battery. As long as you have good connections you can get away without it.
As a note: Mil spec. is not to use the body/frame for ground current, but run ground wires back to the battery. It reduces rust, due to electrolysis.
I hope this helps a bit, or gives you some food for thought.
You need to use a battery meant to be used inside, it will have a vent line for it that you run to the outside of the car.
As for too much power, 220A is the max Amps. Your regulator should keep the voltage in range. Only just after starting the car should the charging Amps be High.
When I remote mount batteries I run a heavy cable to the car's main ground point from the battery. As long as you have good connections you can get away without it.
As a note: Mil spec. is not to use the body/frame for ground current, but run ground wires back to the battery. It reduces rust, due to electrolysis.
I hope this helps a bit, or gives you some food for thought.
Last edited by VE6SDW; 07-24-2012 at 11:09 PM. Reason: Bad wording
07-25-2012, 06:18 PM
#4
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: grafton ontario
Posts: 45
Catalog
Have a quick read here .
Prices have gone up and mark loves to chat .
I got this kit and it is alittle work but i think it's well worth it . I aslo used a kill switch and i too have a red top with a 3 G upfront.
Have a quick read here .
Prices have gone up and mark loves to chat .
I got this kit and it is alittle work but i think it's well worth it . I aslo used a kill switch and i too have a red top with a 3 G upfront.
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