Advice on going to 4.30's from 4.10's
 

I am thinking of changing from the 4.10's I have in now to 4.30's.
With your guys and gals advice do you think it will be a gain or "worth it" to me for performance.
I will at this time and the next few years stay NA.
I am only looking for gains at the track and do not care what rpm and such the car drives at on the street.

I do not want to go to a 4.56 as I think it will be too radical for my application.

Thanks for your advice and input.

from a mathematical perspective (ie: 4.30/4.10) you're getting a 5% increase in gear ratio

financially...probably $500 ($600 for gears, install and tweak the chip...sell your 410s for $100)

with the Mach's 6800 redline...I'd say do it :tup

For better gains go 4:56...if your not worried about the revs go big, you will not notice a 5% gain at the track...it would be less then a difference from a cold day to a hot day. Lots of guys south have Mach's with 4:56's and are now well into the 12's. Check out Stangnet or corall... :tup

Greg, this past summer Wayne ran a 12.9x with his NA Bullitt (minor boltons/tune) and 4.30's. Your car has more power to begin with so I agree go big. As for your 4.10s if your selling them for 100 bucks I will take them.

Thanks Eric, do you think that a 15 inch 275/50/15 MT drag radial would hold with 4.56's? Thanks again for your thoughts.

Not sure what I am doing with the gears, but will keep you in mind for them for sure Paul. So you are saying go with the 4.56 also?


Thanks for the feedback all!

If you dont care about the cruising RPM's and what not then go with the 4.56s. Those things certainly pull all the way up to redline. I think 4.30s would work well but wouldnt be worth the small gain. A step up to 4.56s would give you a little more grunt but it would be worth it.
Have you looked at other methods to increasing your ET?? Why not shed the rear seat and trim some weight from the car? Go with a tubular K member instead of the gear install, that would give you a better gain in my opinion.
SS

Thanks and was thinking of the rear seat delete. I have Drag struts up front and they are working good so far. Not sure I want to get into changing the whole front yet. Too new. lol Thanks again.

Go with the 4.56's like Eric said.What's the old expression go big or stay at home............. :tup

yes but you will need to reduce the amount of air in them accordingly. The M/T's are a different breed then the Nitto's you ran which I'm sure you know.
Less air the better...I ran mine at 12-14 psi and I was launching off idol.

Personally if I had your car I would do a back seat delete, move the battery to the trunk, go with some 4:56's and you will be a consistant 12 second car, which is what I know your looking for.

You and I have a simular drive to track race and its hard to go a winter season without some sort of mod...4:56's hands down and sell your 4:10's!

I'll see you at the track in the spring...with my new mod :biggrin:

Right on, I think I may be sold on the 4.56 gears. I will try and find out what your new mod is by the time the season rolls around! Any hints!

umm i do believe it is a whipple!!!:chacha::chacha:

how much for the 4.10's shipped? :biggrin:

I'd go 4.56. You'll have tons of fun. :tup

no comment :biggrin:

Hey... if you want to putz with tire size and gear ratio [and HP] this seems to be a decent calculator.
http://www.speedworldmotorplex.com/calc.htm

I vote 4.56s too, but, and this is just me... IMO we dont really race on some of the killer prepped tracks that that some of these ultra quick on stock stuff guys in the US do. Bob Cosby has gotten low 1.50s lifting the front wheel on a drag radial [BFG] in his black Cobra but try that at St Thomas or even T.O Motorsports park. :laughhard And no, i'm not hating on the tracks either, they just arent mega dollar facilities.

IMO I would get a set of 15x8 or 9" rims for the rear and some ET Drags [prolly a 9" wide Weld and a 26X10 ET Drag] so you can take advantage of what the gearing has to offer in the first place, [torque mutiplication and getting a heavy car moving easier... but with that, comes wheelspin] and with 4.56s, IMO... the idea really is to hold it at 5500 and drop the hammer, and row the gears till the other end w/o lifting yer foot. :wink:

Othwerwise, with a 4.56 if having to backpedal a tad due to spin, and going easy on the launch, and not powershifting, you'll be making a shift b4 the 60' marker and yer 60s will suck.

If yer gonna be having to tweak yer launches and hooking is inconsistant b/c of your tire now, then I wouldn't bother upgrading to the 4.56s unless you plan to do with them what they are made for. Heck why don't you try, or borrow, an ET Drag now, with these gears just to see?

That day at St Thomas i'd have loaned you mine for two passes [seriously] he we talked.... :) .

Thanks for the advice, and the straight up talk. Appreciate it! Got me thinking about traction and the 60 ft shift.

on a good day (you know what I mean) and you heat the m/t's real good I dont think you will cut them loose at sparta. I have tried and smoked my clutch doing so.

Those tires are sticky but will not last as long as your nittos...I got about 30 passes out of mine and I never heated them like you did your nittos, and I only used them for the track.

The only time I can remember them spinning is once the track has gone away...first gear will be very short...you could even try starting in 2nd and see how it goes...some US guys do it.