Mm Or Steeda Lca's ????
I am going to replace my stock control arms and don't know what brand to go with, any help would be great from members that have or know of someone that has these on their cars. I only use my car on the street, no track time whatsoever. Things like noise, fit and finish etc.....
Here they are.....http://www.themustangshop.ca/site/ca...r=TU1STENBMQ== and these. http://www.steeda.ca/catalogue_product.asp?id=687 |
On my '89 I went with Southside upper and lowers. They are a little noisey on the street but they sure do make the tires plant at the track. Dont know if that is what you are after but they get the :tup from me. Good luck.
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i think both are good quality, go with whats cheaper. I heard many good things about MM tho
btw im pretty sure southside is out of bisiness now (from that I last heard) |
Though I have not installed yet, I have the Steeda LCA's. I did some research and found out that they are not that noisy and the MM and the Steeda's are about the best ones out there. good luck.
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I'll probably be installing the MM LCA's in about a month. Having Poly on both ends (a la Steeda) will create a lot of rear suspension bind. From what I've read, poly is less likely to transmit road noise than a spherical bushing.
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I bought the MM arms and they quality is bar to none. I have a set with double Solid bushings on both ends. No increased noise in the car and I naver have to worry about worn Poly bushings again.
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I've heard much the same thing as G-force.
IMHO only, MM parts tend to be more "hard-core", whereas Steeda stuff tends to be OK for occasional track use and still streetable. Both are quality stuff however. I am curious as to why you want them if you only drive on the street? |
I am sure any stang could benefit from these, you don't have to race it to want to improve the handling.......
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Originally Posted by 89notchback
On my '89 I went with Southside upper and lowers. They are a little noisey on the street but they sure do make the tires plant at the track. Dont know if that is what you are after but they get the :tup from me. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Roadkiller
I've heard much the same thing as G-force.
IMHO only, MM parts tend to be more "hard-core", whereas Steeda stuff tends to be OK for occasional track use and still streetable. Both are quality stuff however. I am curious as to why you want them if you only drive on the street? I'd be more worried about durability having poly on both ends (torn torque boxes anyone?) than having spherical on one end. |
Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie
I assume that question was directed towards NXGHOST? :wink:
I'd be more worried about durability having poly on both ends (torn torque boxes anyone?) than having spherical on one end. If you want to improve handling, I'd go with poly on both ends. You shouldn't get any bind unless you're running uppers and lowers with poly bushings. I'm using Evolution Motorsport lcas, they're aluminum with poly on both ends, major handing improvement, no real sound difference. |
STOCK
"4 Link - Stock LCA / Stock UCAs 11lb/in Linear" WITH MM LCA "4 Link - MM LCA 3 piece poly, spherical bearing / Stock UCAs 9lb/in Linear" WITH BOTH ENDS POLY "4 Link - LCA with 3 Piece Urethane at both ends / Stock UCAs 26lb/in" from, http://www.2kgt.com/item.php?itemid=77 :) |
Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie
I assume that question was directed towards NXGHOST? :wink:
I'd be more worried about durability having poly on both ends (torn torque boxes anyone?) than having spherical on one end. PS> My torques boxes were welded because I drag the car with slicks. |
No slicks for my car, it's just a mostly stock looker. The odd tire chirp is the only stress it will likely see from me.
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Originally Posted by NXGHOST
You wont be hurting torque boxes just because you have solid arms. Wheelhop or major traction hurts torque boxes. If you use solid arms you can kiss the wheelhop goodbye. If you’re running solid arms with slicks then you best weld your torque boxes just to be safe. With no wheelhop and street tires, you won’t hurt the torque boxes either. On the other hand, with poly bushings (Which compress and get sloppy) you will wheelhop with street tires and case more damage anyway. I guess you never win! LOL
PS> My torques boxes were welded because I drag the car with slicks. |
Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie
Not sure here, but when you say "solid" do you mean "spherical" ?
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I wet with MM lowers and ford racing uppers. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
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Use the MM's. They are great. If you are going to have a shop put them in, why not get the torque boxes welded up at the same time. It will save you $$$ in the long run.
Dave |
Originally Posted by 250rtone
I wet with MM lowers and ford racing uppers. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
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For anyone else that is looking for a great combo I would take a serious look at the steeda drag pak, great price and it has worked 100% for me, I am now cutting 1.6 60fts with the Mach. I also added Hoosier Drag Radials but the uppers and lowers are for sure doing there job as there is no sloppy feeling at all. They are worth every penny.
Check them out here Steeda Drag Pack |
Originally Posted by StratGT
How much are the lowers, it the website price accurate listing the lowers as $321 each? I'm thinking thats for both.
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Originally Posted by 250rtone
The ford racing uppers are $90 or so and the mm lowers are $321 a pair, i went with that combo because i checked on stangnet and the corral and it seems to be a popular combo that everyone agrees on.
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Originally Posted by Ponyryd
I think it was directed at the thread starter.
If you want to improve handling, I'd go with poly on both ends. You shouldn't get any bind unless you're running uppers and lowers with poly bushings. And MM all the way for LCA's if you feel the need to change them. |
I've heard the 03/04 Cobra LCA's fit the 5.0L's. I was told it was a cheaper route to go. Anyone know if this is true.
I have to replace my ball joints, and wondering if I should just change the whole arm while I'm at it. You know how the saying goes, if it breaks, make it faster. :) I'm thinking of going the route of MM lowers. Do I have to change the upper at the same time aswell. If I don't go the route of the new LCA, what are some ball joints some ppl suggest? Thanks, -Sam. |
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