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Mm Or Steeda Lca's ????

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Old 04-09-2006, 07:59 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie
I assume that question was directed towards NXGHOST?

I'd be more worried about durability having poly on both ends (torn torque boxes anyone?) than having spherical on one end.
I think it was directed at the thread starter.

If you want to improve handling, I'd go with poly on both ends. You shouldn't get any bind unless you're running uppers and lowers with poly bushings. I'm using Evolution Motorsport lcas, they're aluminum with poly on both ends, major handing improvement, no real sound difference.
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Old 04-09-2006, 10:38 PM
  #12  
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STOCK
"4 Link - Stock LCA / Stock UCAs
11lb/in Linear"

WITH MM LCA
"4 Link - MM LCA 3 piece poly, spherical bearing / Stock UCAs
9lb/in Linear"

WITH BOTH ENDS POLY
"4 Link - LCA with 3 Piece Urethane at both ends / Stock UCAs
26lb/in"

from, http://www.2kgt.com/item.php?itemid=77
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Old 04-10-2006, 06:19 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie
I assume that question was directed towards NXGHOST?

I'd be more worried about durability having poly on both ends (torn torque boxes anyone?) than having spherical on one end.
You wont be hurting torque boxes just because you have solid arms. Wheelhop or major traction hurts torque boxes. If you use solid arms you can kiss the wheelhop goodbye. If you’re running solid arms with slicks then you best weld your torque boxes just to be safe. With no wheelhop and street tires, you won’t hurt the torque boxes either. On the other hand, with poly bushings (Which compress and get sloppy) you will wheelhop with street tires and case more damage anyway. I guess you never win! LOL

PS> My torques boxes were welded because I drag the car with slicks.
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:53 AM
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No slicks for my car, it's just a mostly stock looker. The odd tire chirp is the only stress it will likely see from me.
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:05 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by NXGHOST
You wont be hurting torque boxes just because you have solid arms. Wheelhop or major traction hurts torque boxes. If you use solid arms you can kiss the wheelhop goodbye. If you’re running solid arms with slicks then you best weld your torque boxes just to be safe. With no wheelhop and street tires, you won’t hurt the torque boxes either. On the other hand, with poly bushings (Which compress and get sloppy) you will wheelhop with street tires and case more damage anyway. I guess you never win! LOL

PS> My torques boxes were welded because I drag the car with slicks.
Not sure here, but when you say "solid" do you mean "spherical" ?
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:01 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie
Not sure here, but when you say "solid" do you mean "spherical" ?
Sorry, yes I do.
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Old 04-13-2006, 10:05 PM
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I wet with MM lowers and ford racing uppers. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
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Old 04-20-2006, 04:00 PM
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Use the MM's. They are great. If you are going to have a shop put them in, why not get the torque boxes welded up at the same time. It will save you $$$ in the long run.

Dave
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:37 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 250rtone
I wet with MM lowers and ford racing uppers. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
How much are the lowers, it the website price accurate listing the lowers as $321 each? I'm thinking thats for both.
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:08 PM
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For anyone else that is looking for a great combo I would take a serious look at the steeda drag pak, great price and it has worked 100% for me, I am now cutting 1.6 60fts with the Mach. I also added Hoosier Drag Radials but the uppers and lowers are for sure doing there job as there is no sloppy feeling at all. They are worth every penny.

Check them out here Steeda Drag Pack

Last edited by gfong; 04-30-2006 at 09:25 PM.
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