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-   -   Very interesting chat yesterday (https://www.cmoc.ca/general-mustang-tech-chat-46/very-interesting-chat-yesterday-15890/)

SNAKEBITE 04-20-2011 03:33 PM

Very interesting chat yesterday
 
I had the Hemi at the Petro Can at 4st and 20th Ave yesterday having the gas tank filled and a luxury detail (39.99) and while waiting I started a conversation with the guy sitting beside me. Go figure (for the guys that know me lol) it turns out he is a scientist in the iol/lubrication field. We talked for 10 solid minutes and being the kind of guy that asks a thousand questions, did I learn a few things.

I learned that the average person can easily use Dino oil as long as it's changed at regular intervals.

cars like mine that require syn oil, use it. I was told Mobil 1 is more than adequate.

Not to start any arguements but he told me Royal Purple is nothing wonderful and the shocker was that Amsoil is best used in a jet (fighter) cruising at 60,000 feet due to the cold etc. The reason he told me not to use it in our cars is it contains ester and that = no good.

Basically he said buy a good brand name Syn or Dino and all will be good ie Quaker State Mobil 1 Penzoil etc.

You can argue with me but this is the first scientist I have ever spoken with and the above statements are his not mine :D

2tone 04-20-2011 06:07 PM

I use castrol.

LOL

Everett 04-20-2011 07:26 PM

He is right. You can use the cheapest oil on the shelf if it meets the spec and you change it often. I get Amsoil for the price of Dino oil so I ain't switching and mobil 1 isn't a real synthetic. It's a hydrocracked group 3 basestock which is derived from Dino oil. I am not saying it isn't good oil,it just isn't what it claims to be. If I was going to go back to Dino oil penzoil is great stuff and has a high moly count. Do some research on molybdenum. It is an amazing friction reducer. And you can find it at napa. Its a mineral that when heated and under pressure will fill all the micro grooves in metal creating a perfectly smooth super slick barrier so you actually never have metal to metal contact again. I have now put it in both my mustang and my chevy. In the chevy with a 100 liter tank I got 100 kms more per tank and the only thing I did different was add liqui-moly to the oil. It was gradual tho. The first tank was 40 kms more,the second tank was about 70 kms more then peaked at 100. And has stayed there. I used to get 450 per tank with mixed city and highway now it's never under 550. The mustang was a bit different. Right off the bat my idle which I tuned to be 550 went up to 750 and after about 3 tanks went back to 550 and I get 70 kms per tank better mileage right now. I have the motor apart right now because it spit a plug and the head wasn't able to heli-coil. My mechanic said he has never felt a cylinder wall that smooth and slick and asked what I had in there. I told him liqui-moly. Went I went in today there was a case of it on his desk. That's all I need to know.

1low03gt 04-20-2011 09:02 PM


Originally Posted by 2tone (Post 149037)
I use castrol.

LOL

Castrol guy here too.

carspark 04-20-2011 09:48 PM

i use mobil one ive always liked mobil one

Everett 04-21-2011 05:42 AM

I have done alot of research on oil since becoming an Amsoil dealer. If you mobil 1 fanboys want to save a buck mobil also produces wal-marts house brand of oil so if you don't mind a different label the contents are the same. And the only easily available 'true' synthetics,that come from a synthetic basestock with completely uniform and identical molecules are Amsoil,royal purple and red-line. Royal purple and red-line contain very high amounts of moly whereas Amsoil uses boron,zinc and phosphorus as their anti-wear agents. Amsoils xl line for higher mileage motors contain a substantial increase in their anti-wear agents however higher zddp content tends to clog the cats up faster but if you got no cats or you have them punched out that line is your best bet and if used consistently will prolong engine life. And even if you beat the out of your motor the xl line will last 10000 kms. And listen guys synthetics do not protect any better than a conventional oil they just last longer and if you are going to stick to 5000 km oil change intervals don't waste your hard earned dough. And for all the 2v owners the 5w-20 oil spec is bullshit. 5w-30 is you smart choice and if you are like me and rev the motor over 3000 rpm often a 0w-40 euro oil is in your best interest. I have researched this issue at length and I have learned that the only reason ford specs that oil is due to the CAFE laws,5w-20 is 2% better on fuel. However you can save that fuel consumption at start up by using a 0w- oil.for our Canadian winters a 0w-30 is a must too. Be good to your pony and help it live longer by ditching the 5w-20. Trust me. I don't sleep much so I read alot. And all those manufacturers calling their oils a 'full' synthetic aren't. The only easily available one are listed above and some specialty brands such as Joe Gibbs. There are others however I dint recall them offhand

SNAKEBITE 04-21-2011 06:17 PM

My SVT dealer uses Mobil 1 for the GT500's so I will go with that.

ChadStang 04-21-2011 11:40 PM


Originally Posted by SNAKEBITE (Post 149169)
My SVT dealer uses Mobil 1 for the GT500's so I will go with that.

That's what I used my last service but I read on GT500.com that Mobil 1 isn't recommended because it isn't a full synthetic.

SNAKEBITE 04-22-2011 02:45 AM

I wonder why they would use it???????

ChadStang 04-22-2011 02:48 PM


Originally Posted by SNAKEBITE (Post 149266)
I wonder why they would use it???????

Could be BS I'm not sure but I am going to do some digging on it.


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