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Ok, then he's CMOC's fastest as soon as he joins!
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Tim, dont you hate it when someone is faster than you? lol.. I was hoping to be one of the faster guys around. I have been building a car for 2 years and finally its almost done and everyone fast is about 1/2 a second quicker.
Damn you and your nitrous! I am going to start having to sell my body and get a Dart block ...umm this might take a while.... :bang |
Honestly I love it! Competition is good and it's always great when it's between friends....it keeps me on my toes. In the past few years mine has turned into a more purpose built car (OSCA index racer) so I'm pleased where I'm at. I would like to get it a bit quicker though and try and step up a class, but if it doesn't happen I'm not disappointed.
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Beatiful car ! Dod you re sheetmetal over the walls of fill on the holes? i was thinking about doing the same thing/ Suggestions? |
Ryan, they are fabricated sheetmetal panels welded over the factory inner aprons. It was easier to completely smooth and cover the panels rather than weld up each and every individual hole. I think it looks slick myself, Clint did a great job with it!
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Originally Posted by Speedtospare
Beatiful car ! Dod you re sheetmetal over the walls of fill on the holes? i was thinking about doing the same thing/ Suggestions?
What gauge steel should I use? I also have to fit some 3" tubing though there. Hmm and I have to relocate my MSD, boost retard, coil, , wires are already moved.... all well I have all winter. |
Yup, the firewall holes were welded up, not covered like the forward sections of the aprons. The strut tower holes were also welded up and smoothed out.
Steel, 18ga would work nicely and be pretty strong but 20-22ga would be easier to form. Since it's mainly cosmetic and the structure is still in behind it probably wouldn't be too big of a deal to go with the lighter steel. |
Originally Posted by TC89LX
Yup, the firewall holes were welded up, not covered like the forward sections of the aprons. The strut tower holes were also welded up and smoothed out.
Steel, 18ga would work nicely and be pretty strong but 20-22ga would be easier to form. Since it's mainly cosmetic and the structure is still in behind it probably wouldn't be too big of a deal to go with the lighter steel. |
When in doubt, go thicker. It'll weld easier anyways, just a bit trickier to form.
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Originally Posted by 91mgt
maybe i should start a thread of Before and After. then we could post pics of our cars when we got it, and how she sits now. :)
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