clutch install help
04-05-2008, 11:13 AM
#1
CMOC Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
Posts: 21
clutch install help
So I'm pretty much a newbi when it comes to cars. But I ended up buying a new clutch for my car (centerforce dual friction) and I was going to have a guy install it for $200, but he ended up calling me today and saying that he had to end up ordering a part for his car, and that he wouldn't be able to get me in for a few more days. So this got me to thinking that I would give it a try myself since I'm tight on money right now anyways having replace the alternator and battery recently as well. So here where my question comes in, is there any good site or book that would be really helpful in installing a new clutch.. I'm generally a visual person, so pictures would be great (since I'm not familiar with the underside of a car anyways) So any help would be great.
Chris
Chris
04-15-2008, 11:54 PM
#2
Chris, I would ear-mark at least 12 hours for this job, it took me that (including waiting on the flywheel being resurfaced) to get mine done.
You need to put the car up on jack stands, at least the front.
You will need to disconnect all the electrical plugs from the transmission, and then have somebody pull UP on the clutch cable to release it into adjustment mode, and then pull the cable to get it released from the fork. Then get to work on removing the bellhousing from the back of the engine. The bolts at the top are really fun.
Remove one of the U-joints or disconnect the driveshaft at the axle.
Remove the cross-member and support the tranny with a jack. Slide it out and down (it may be easier to remove the shifter first) and get it out of the way. Make sure you keep the yoke from the driveshaft IN the tranny, or you will get a mess.
Then, unbolt the clutch from the flywheel.
Then, remove the flywheel from the engine. Take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. It will look like hell.
**********This is a good time to replace your rear main seal if it's leaking*******
Make sure you have a new pilot and new throw-out bearing, I used OEM Ford ones.
Have fun getting the pilot bearing out.
Swear a lot.
After replacing the pilot bearing and the rear main, re-install the newly resurfaced flywheel. Torque the bolts to spec.
Install the new clutch, using the supplied disc guide to centre the disc. Torque down to spec.
Clean up inside the bell, then lightly grease the shaft that the throwout bearing slides on. Install the new throwout bearing on the clutch fork.
Use the jack to put the tranny back up. Swear a lot as you try to seat it and prevent the clutch fork from falling off.
Swear some more.
Put the bolts back in.
Drop the top ones several times.
Swear some more.
Punch something.
Torque to spec.
Reinstall the driveshaft.
Have somebody lift the clutch pedal into "adjust" mode again as you reinstall the clutch cable.
Get in the car, hit the clutch pedal a few times. Lift up on the pedal to make sure the adjuster is set correctly.
Stall the car a few times.
Discover the Centerforce has a LOT more grab than the stocker, but a lighter pedal.
Enjoy!
-Chris
You need to put the car up on jack stands, at least the front.
You will need to disconnect all the electrical plugs from the transmission, and then have somebody pull UP on the clutch cable to release it into adjustment mode, and then pull the cable to get it released from the fork. Then get to work on removing the bellhousing from the back of the engine. The bolts at the top are really fun.
Remove one of the U-joints or disconnect the driveshaft at the axle.
Remove the cross-member and support the tranny with a jack. Slide it out and down (it may be easier to remove the shifter first) and get it out of the way. Make sure you keep the yoke from the driveshaft IN the tranny, or you will get a mess.
Then, unbolt the clutch from the flywheel.
Then, remove the flywheel from the engine. Take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. It will look like hell.
**********This is a good time to replace your rear main seal if it's leaking*******
Make sure you have a new pilot and new throw-out bearing, I used OEM Ford ones.
Have fun getting the pilot bearing out.
Swear a lot.
After replacing the pilot bearing and the rear main, re-install the newly resurfaced flywheel. Torque the bolts to spec.
Install the new clutch, using the supplied disc guide to centre the disc. Torque down to spec.
Clean up inside the bell, then lightly grease the shaft that the throwout bearing slides on. Install the new throwout bearing on the clutch fork.
Use the jack to put the tranny back up. Swear a lot as you try to seat it and prevent the clutch fork from falling off.
Swear some more.
Put the bolts back in.
Drop the top ones several times.
Swear some more.
Punch something.
Torque to spec.
Reinstall the driveshaft.
Have somebody lift the clutch pedal into "adjust" mode again as you reinstall the clutch cable.
Get in the car, hit the clutch pedal a few times. Lift up on the pedal to make sure the adjuster is set correctly.
Stall the car a few times.
Discover the Centerforce has a LOT more grab than the stocker, but a lighter pedal.
Enjoy!
-Chris
04-16-2008, 11:17 PM
#4
Chris, I would ear-mark at least 12 hours for this job, it took me that (including waiting on the flywheel being resurfaced) to get mine done.
You need to put the car up on jack stands, at least the front.
You will need to disconnect all the electrical plugs from the transmission, and then have somebody pull UP on the clutch cable to release it into adjustment mode, and then pull the cable to get it released from the fork. Then get to work on removing the bellhousing from the back of the engine. The bolts at the top are really fun.
Remove one of the U-joints or disconnect the driveshaft at the axle.
Remove the cross-member and support the tranny with a jack. Slide it out and down (it may be easier to remove the shifter first) and get it out of the way. Make sure you keep the yoke from the driveshaft IN the tranny, or you will get a mess.
Then, unbolt the clutch from the flywheel.
Then, remove the flywheel from the engine. Take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. It will look like hell.
**********This is a good time to replace your rear main seal if it's leaking*******
Make sure you have a new pilot and new throw-out bearing, I used OEM Ford ones.
Have fun getting the pilot bearing out.
Swear a lot.
After replacing the pilot bearing and the rear main, re-install the newly resurfaced flywheel. Torque the bolts to spec.
Install the new clutch, using the supplied disc guide to centre the disc. Torque down to spec.
Clean up inside the bell, then lightly grease the shaft that the throwout bearing slides on. Install the new throwout bearing on the clutch fork.
Use the jack to put the tranny back up. Swear a lot as you try to seat it and prevent the clutch fork from falling off.
Swear some more.
Put the bolts back in.
Drop the top ones several times.
Swear some more.
Punch something.
Torque to spec.
Reinstall the driveshaft.
Have somebody lift the clutch pedal into "adjust" mode again as you reinstall the clutch cable.
Get in the car, hit the clutch pedal a few times. Lift up on the pedal to make sure the adjuster is set correctly.
Stall the car a few times.
Discover the Centerforce has a LOT more grab than the stocker, but a lighter pedal.
Enjoy!
-Chris
You need to put the car up on jack stands, at least the front.
You will need to disconnect all the electrical plugs from the transmission, and then have somebody pull UP on the clutch cable to release it into adjustment mode, and then pull the cable to get it released from the fork. Then get to work on removing the bellhousing from the back of the engine. The bolts at the top are really fun.
Remove one of the U-joints or disconnect the driveshaft at the axle.
Remove the cross-member and support the tranny with a jack. Slide it out and down (it may be easier to remove the shifter first) and get it out of the way. Make sure you keep the yoke from the driveshaft IN the tranny, or you will get a mess.
Then, unbolt the clutch from the flywheel.
Then, remove the flywheel from the engine. Take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. It will look like hell.
**********This is a good time to replace your rear main seal if it's leaking*******
Make sure you have a new pilot and new throw-out bearing, I used OEM Ford ones.
Have fun getting the pilot bearing out.
Swear a lot.
After replacing the pilot bearing and the rear main, re-install the newly resurfaced flywheel. Torque the bolts to spec.
Install the new clutch, using the supplied disc guide to centre the disc. Torque down to spec.
Clean up inside the bell, then lightly grease the shaft that the throwout bearing slides on. Install the new throwout bearing on the clutch fork.
Use the jack to put the tranny back up. Swear a lot as you try to seat it and prevent the clutch fork from falling off.
Swear some more.
Put the bolts back in.
Drop the top ones several times.
Swear some more.
Punch something.
Torque to spec.
Reinstall the driveshaft.
Have somebody lift the clutch pedal into "adjust" mode again as you reinstall the clutch cable.
Get in the car, hit the clutch pedal a few times. Lift up on the pedal to make sure the adjuster is set correctly.
Stall the car a few times.
Discover the Centerforce has a LOT more grab than the stocker, but a lighter pedal.
Enjoy!
-Chris
You need to put the car up on jack stands, at least the front.
You will need to disconnect all the electrical plugs from the transmission, and then have somebody pull UP on the clutch cable to release it into adjustment mode, and then pull the cable to get it released from the fork. Then get to work on removing the bellhousing from the back of the engine. The bolts at the top are really fun.
I would then drop the drive shaft, before removing bell housing bolts.
I would also remove the tranny first and THEN the bell housing, rather then trying to fight with the entire transmission I just found it easier. Plus like Chris said the 2 top bolts on the bell housing are a P.I.T.A, but they are easier once the transmission is out of your way, and a couple long extensions, maybe even a swivel lol.
Remove one of the U-joints or disconnect the driveshaft at the axle.
If it were me and im lazy and like to do things the easy way lol, I would remove the 4 bolts on the Drive shaft flange to drop the entire Drive shaft.
On a side note, before you begin make sure you have, or able to buy/borrow a "12mm 12 point shallow swivel socket" it is recommend to have this to remove those small bolts, or a 12mm 12 point boxed end wrench and a hammer lol.
The only down fall to this is, your going to loose tranny fluid unless your fluid is old and needs to be replaced any ways. So make sure you drain your fluid first
Remove the cross-member and support the tranny with a jack. Slide it out and down (it may be easier to remove the shifter first) and get it out of the way. Make sure you keep the yoke from the driveshaft IN the tranny, or you will get a mess.
Yes I recommend remove the shift before removing your transmission, or there could be a slight problem and possible a head ache lol.
Once it comes to installing, I would use "medium strength" lock tight for the price of it and for the safety its worth it.
I would use the lock tight on the fly wheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, and the drive shaft bolts.
People that don't use lock tight are hackers.
Have fun with your new clutch install, and don't be scared off words make it sound harder then it is
Good Luck.
04-16-2008, 11:40 PM
#5
LOL at the loctite comment. I only use it where the factory uses it And yes, I meant clutch PEDAL, LOL!
Keep in mind the driveshaft bolts are loctited from the factory, so if they have never been out, they can be EXTREMELY difficult to get out. I'm talking double-wrenched + using a JACK on the wrenches to break the bolts free tight......
And make sure you have a torque wrench.
And yes, I meant clutch PEDAL, LOL! Keep in mind the driveshaft bolts are loctited from the factory, so if they have never been out, they can be EXTREMELY difficult to get out. I'm talking double-wrenched + using a JACK on the wrenches to break the bolts free tight......
And make sure you have a torque wrench.
04-18-2008, 08:10 PM
#6
LOL at the loctite comment. I only use it where the factory uses it And yes, I meant clutch PEDAL, LOL!
Keep in mind the driveshaft bolts are loctited from the factory, so if they have never been out, they can be EXTREMELY difficult to get out. I'm talking double-wrenched + using a JACK on the wrenches to break the bolts free tight......
And make sure you have a torque wrench.
And yes, I meant clutch PEDAL, LOL! Keep in mind the driveshaft bolts are loctited from the factory, so if they have never been out, they can be EXTREMELY difficult to get out. I'm talking double-wrenched + using a JACK on the wrenches to break the bolts free tight......
And make sure you have a torque wrench.
I was just gonna EDIT your post and make the corrections but I thought christ this might be the only time I ever get to do this hahaha.
You like the Hack comment eh...you know were thats going LMAO :laughhard
04-26-2008, 10:34 AM
#9
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 58
Not an easy job.
200$ for the install is not that much , considering if you have any problems , i think i would just wait until that guy can do it.
This is old , did you get it done yet?
Installing clutch not the easiest thing to do. Something i wouldn't want to mess up on , good instructions above though.
200$ for the install is not that much , considering if you have any problems , i think i would just wait until that guy can do it.
This is old , did you get it done yet?
Installing clutch not the easiest thing to do. Something i wouldn't want to mess up on , good instructions above though.
