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Winter Storage

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Old 02-16-2009, 09:43 PM
  #41  
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Yeah I oiled mine all up before I stored it,... i pull it out every couple weeks to start it and roll it so no flat spots and caliper seize.
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Old 02-17-2009, 08:54 AM
  #42  
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Picked up the new one 1 month ago with new syn in her so I`m good until next April 2010.
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Old 02-17-2009, 11:02 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TOPLSFOX
Yeah I oiled mine all up before I stored it,... i pull it out every couple weeks to start it and roll it so no flat spots and caliper seize.
I should have oiled mine up, but meh.

This summer I likely will and she is going to her final resting place.
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Old 03-03-2009, 04:59 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 2000BLKGT
don't bother starting it....more harm than good

1) bump the tire pressures up 5-8psi higher than normal driving conditions
2) Stabil in the tank....and be sure to run the car for a good 20 minutes to insure the Stabil goes throughout the system
3) top the tank up to full
4) cut 4 pieces of 1" plywood planks about 1'x2' and park the car on the planks - stops the moisture from working it's way up the car from the cold concrete floor
5) yank the battery
6) give her a good detail and put a quality cover on

I leave the car in gear with no ebrake on....older Stangs were notorious for ebrakes seizing

in the Spring....charge the battery up for 24-48 hours, drop it in...adjust tire pressures and your back on the road
Totally agree with everything except the fuel stabilizer. Modern gas is really good so it can certainly sit for four months without causing any problems. If you are storing it for years, that would be different.
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Old 03-06-2009, 08:37 AM
  #45  
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I agree Rust inhibitor is a must! I did the no-drip for about $80 (didn't want to make a mess of my driveway and garage floor). Make sure you tell them exactly what you want done though. I didn't want them spraying inside the engine compartment or the trunk - I did that myself with a can of RustCheck. I also told them I didn't want it drilled - there should be enough drain holes and spaces to get into without the drilling.
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Old 03-06-2009, 07:48 PM
  #46  
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I bought my car in 91 and stored it indoors every year since ....all I do is unhook the battery...... throw two bars of Irish Spring in...... crack both windows a bit and put a car cover over her...
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:58 PM
  #47  
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Yeh, on hooking the battery is a good idea
I cheated and took mine out for a drive yesterday...Sunshine and +12...Today its snowing (go figure)
It turned over, but barely
Eye is red on the battery now
Hooked it up to my charger to see if it will help me out but I have a feeling I will most likely be replaceing it
Other than that, (taking out the battery) I just leave'er sit in the garage and change the oil when I take her back out for the season (which will hopefully be soon!)
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:49 PM
  #48  
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I decided to leave the battery in the car while stored but I bought a trickle charger to keep it alive.
It came with clamps and also with the hard wire connector.

I use the hard wire connection only with it. You hook the harness up to the battery and leave it. When you want to hook it up to the trickle charger you simply hook the charger up to the lead off of the harness and you're done.

I do not leave it hooked up 24/7 (you can do that though harmlessly). I don't like anything like that hooked up when I am not around the house in case of a short or whatever.
I plug it in each Saturday and the battery is topped up by the evening. Works great...has status lights on it and makes no humming noise.

I bought it at Canadian Tire. They actually have them on this week for $19.99 this week....good deal.......and no I absolutely do not work for CT.....just passing along some useful info.....LOL

Here is a picture of it:
Attached Thumbnails Winter Storage-motomaster-float-charger.jpg  
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Old 03-17-2009, 03:33 PM
  #49  
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Winter Storage is over in Southern Ontario it is 15 here today, had it out with fresh oil and plugs, wash and wax
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Old 11-07-2022, 05:02 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 4 CRUZEN
I never remove the tires or put it up on blocks it's hard on the suspension to just let the wheels and struts hang suspended. They are meant to be compressed. A couple of miles and the tires are fine or as someone else stated roll the roll a couple feet.
Starting a an engine up in the winter is also hard it. The oil it will accumulate condensation even if you bring it to full running temperatures. Always change your oil first thing in the spring.
Stabalizer is better but supposedly gas is good for 6 months without it? I use it pretty cheap insurance.
Battery should be fully charged and disconnected most people remove them and put them indoors. Do not store them on a cement floor without protection underneath them.
I also put steel wool in my tail pipes (keeps out the little guys) and tins of baking soda under the hood it absorbs moisture. Moth ***** will also keep the little fellows away if you put some in and around your car, gives it that new smell in the spring.

Pull the cover in the spring, change the oil and get out the wax!! 3 more months to go.
having worked in the fuel industry for 13 years, gas will degrade after 30 days. Stabilizer should be a must over winter
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