I am not too familiar with those setups, but if it were my car the only way I would be adding in fuel is through the EEC and having appropriate injectors, pump, etc

I'm happy with my Zex kit. Takes most of the guess work out of it and I won't be spraying lean, that's for sure.

What happens if something on that zex box goes bad, the proper amount of fuel does not get delivered? How are you pulling spark? All the time?

Using the EEC is the most powerfull tool you can use

I guess what would happen is the same thing as if the EEC goes bad! LOL.

So I guess it's safe to say a Zex kit is fairly safe for a dry kit?

If the EEC goes bad, your car is not going to be running and you have WAY more problems to deal with

When you have a flip chip for example, you can have one program for N/A and one program for spay this way you are not down on power when not spraying from retarding the timing.

On a EEC-IV (94-95) and EEC-V 96+ you can spray pre maf and not have to worry about retarding the timing or adding in fuel (as long as you have the right sized injectors, maf and pump because the computer will compensate for these things when it see's the nitrous as extra air (more load)

So a chip and the kit are the way to go?

I vote dry anyways................... :biggrin:

As long as you can accomplish the tune, that would be acceptable.

Are you saying to spray through or into the MAF? The Nitrous has to make it into the combustion chamber to increase load. Either before or after MAF will make no difference, the same amount of air will stll have no choice but to flow through the maf. Plus spraying after the maf eliminates any possibility of frosting the maf element. Also, spraying raw feul at a maf is not a great idea either. Spraying before the maf would place the nozzle 2 feet away in some cars, that would create a sluggish hit. Maybe I am just understanding you wrong.

If you spray infront of the meter (like into the airfilter) the mass air flow sensor will register more air, thus increasing the load. Load is roughly volumetric efficiency or how much air is entering the engine over how much it can hold. The EEC looks at the air meter voltage and converts this to an airflow value. This airflow value is used to calculate a term called Load. Load is roughly VE and is determined by the ratio of incoming air over how much the engine can hold. If the air meter tells the EEC it is measuring 50 CFM of air and the engine can hold 100 CFM, then 50 / 100 = .5 (Load) or 50% (VE). Actually, the EEC doesn't measure in CFM, since CFM is a VOLUME measurement and the MAF sensor measures the incoming air by MASS. CFM is a bit easier to understand and the result is the same. Now that the EEC has the Load value, it can go to it's necessary lookup tables such as fuel and spark. The only way to know how much air is entering the engine is via the MAF sensor so as more air hits it, load will increase. Yes, spraying after the maf will eliminate all "freezing" of the meter and is why I said you do not want to spray more than a 75shot in front of the meter. You would not spray raw fuel, because no fuel is sprayed with a dry kit. You want to spray at least 1 foot infront of the meter and nitrous will make it into the combustion chamber spraying before the meter.

Load will increase once more air hits the meter....cylinder pressure wont increase if the nitrous does not make it....