1990 Mustang GT $4600 CAD [$4k USD] ***SOLD***
07-01-2009, 12:53 PM
#1
CMOC Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sault Ste Marie
Posts: 2
1990 Mustang GT $4600 CAD [$4k USD] ***SOLD***
FOR SALE: 1990 Mustang GT (25th Anniversary)
Asking $4,600 CAD ($4000 USD) As-is, where-is.
Located in Sault Ste Marie, Ontario. Where's that? Click the pic...
Purchased in Michigan Sept/05. All major modifications done by previous owner. Unfortunately he was not much of a gear head so he did not keep receipts or spec sheets. Asterisks (?) mark those mystery parts & specs. It's the type of pistons and cam that are the main questions. Previous owner said rebuilt engine had about 3k miles when I bought it.
Under 173k miles on chassis est. based on CarFax report (5 digit odo). Less than 20k miles on rebuilt engine and rear end*. I bought it with a little over 157k showing. Not perfect but works fine where it counts. Runs strong. Has been my daily driver for the last 3+ summers. Driven to London ON, Flint, Traverse City without any issues. Been reliable and a lot of fun. Hate to let it go, but other priorities are getting in the way. Lots of pictures and a video posted on my Photobucket site…
Link to Pictures
Link to dyno tune video
Details:
* 5.0L
* Bored .30 over - not original engine (?)
* Original owner said engine was built ready for nitrous or blower (?) More on that later.
* Edelbrock Performer RPM intake.
* Edelbrock Performer heads - casting number in pics - Edelbrock tech cannot confirm but suspect they are 2.02 intake.
* Crane 1.6 Energizer roller rockers.
* Aftermarket cam (?) - suspect Edelbrock, fairly lumpy, she bucks under 2k rpm.
* 24 lb injectors.
* stock fuel pump (?)
* Dyno tuned at Alternative Auto on regular gas for drivability. Original owner had installed an "Air Adjuster" between MAS and harness to fool the EEC. Did not run as well at part throttle. Lidio (tuner), at Alternative, was surprised, even with regular gas that he could not get more hp considering the top end parts and sound of cam. Agreed with my suspicion of dished pistons (supported by previous owners comment about it being nitrous or blower ready). Previous owner provided his own dyno sheet showing more hp (incl in pics) but that was with large diameter exhaust, and done on a different dyno.
* FMS polished valve covers. I added a baffle to drivers side to stop oil from soaking breather.
* BBK 70 mm TB.
* Stock MAS.
* Summit aluminum rad (universal).
* 180 degree stat.
* FRPP AC delete kit (replaced original home made version that broke)
* Cold air kit.
* MSD distributor & FRPP wires & new plugs.
* Accel coil.
* Long tube headers & custom, fully welded exhaust with resonators, crossover & Flowmasters. Replaced what I bought the car with from headers back.
* Mastercraft battery 1 yr old.
* T5 with Hurst shifter.
* Aluminum driveshaft.
* 8.8 limited slip rear with 3.55 gears.
* 5 bolt conversion (still uses fox spindles & brakes).
* Cervini cowl hood with hood pins. Pins are not located perfectly but they work fine. I added a safety latch.
* Polished stainless "Mustang GT" lettering on rear valence.
* Polished aluminum American Eagle Alloy rims.
* 245/45 R17 General Exclaim UHP tires with lots of rubber left. Bought last summer.
* 2 x 1/4" Ford steering rack limiters on each side (to prevent further wheel rub).
* Pioneer CD player MP3 capable. New pioneer speakers. 2-way in doors, 3-way in back. Nothing special (aka Wal-Mart special) but it works.
* White face dash gauge overlay. U.S. car so speedometermeter is in MPH with small KPH.
Extras that come with the car...
* Air pump bought from GTAMC member but never used.
* Fan shroud and overflow also bought from GTAMC member but never used. One overflow mounting ear broken.
* OEM '90 Ford Mustang repair manuals.
* 5 bolt donut spare w/ non oem jack & handle & can of fix-a-flat
* Header gaskets & bolts
* Extra center cap for rims
What's wrong with the car...
* Minor oil leak from front of engine, possibly timing cover/pan gasket. Few drops under the car overnight (found on clean cardboard in the morning). Have kept my eye on it. Not serious enough for me to worry about. Keep oil topped up and changed every fall before storage. 20W50 & Ford FL-1 filter
* Minor (& occasional) coolant leak. Again, found on cardboard left under car overnight. Not always there. Since there's no overflow, I've kept it topped up anyway.
* No smog pump or cats
* Interior lights, incl map light, don't work.
* Rarely, the power windows, if rolled all the way down, won't come back up right away. Don't know cause because every time when I've tried to troubleshoot, it would come back up. Tired of chasing my tail. Solved by leaving a little bit of window sticking up from door.
* Power door lock solenoids missing but all wiring is there.
* Slight rub on inside of a couple of the wheels from before I added the rack limiters. They hold air just fine.
* Not correct rad for Fox but works well. No overflow. I top it up once in a while when I remember. Rarely gets over the M in "normal". Does not overheat, however it proved it's capable of overheating when it tossed the belt a few years back when original home-made AC delete bracket broke.
* Front outboard passenger side valve cover bolt hole in head is stripped. Does not leak.
* PCV valve weeps oil from around grommet. Needs a baffle.
* Driver side O2 sensor missing. EEC tuned in open loop anyway so not required. After getting home from Alternative, I found out that the tech at alternative removed the sensor but did not replace it. Excuse was it must have broken off. Dangling connector ended up melting against header. It's now tie wrapped under the hood
* Most significant rust is bottom of driver's foot box. Some very small bubbles on hatch. Otherwise very clean.
* Crack in passenger side of rear valence and passenger side of front air dam
* Lots of little paint chips, some peeling spots and some paint cracking on nose of hood and rear valance.
* Missing some interior trim and all rear compartment carpet
* Transmission speedometer gear is still oem (for 3.27 gears best guess). With the 3.55 gears, the speedometer reads about 14% fast according to trip odometer & I-75 mile markers.
* No rear quad shocks. I assume because they would not fit with current wheel width & offset.
* Limited slip still works, but could do with a refresh. Can still deposit 2 blacks marks when required
Why haven't I fixed all this stuff?
Shouldn't be too hard, right? I bought the car for the sole purpose of driving it for a few summers (it's never seen snow as long as I've owned it) then parting it out, keeping the important parts for a Factory Five Roadster (Shelby cobra replica) build… Mk3 Roadster. I have maintained the car as necessary to get me to that point, without adding unnecessary cost but not abusing it either. Thus, I have not put much effort into the things that the FFR would not need, like cosmetics. All my attention has been on maintaining the eventual donor parts. Having mystery parts in the engine has not been an issue, since it runs well and reliably. The plan was to inspect those things when I did the teardown. The slight leaks have not been an issue. You'll see the wet pan in the pics. I add about 1/2 quart of oil a month.
Why am I selling?
I've wanted to build a Cobra replica for 30 years, so the FFR build is still on my radar. Unfortunately, real life keeps getting in the way. The project won't start for at least another 2 years, so the car is worth more to me now as a complete sale then what I can part it out for now and some parts in the corner of the garage saved for later. The market for the leftovers is not very good here in the Soo and shipping charges to larger markets makes selling bigger parts long distance difficult. The reasonable choice is to sell as-is to someone who can either restore and enjoy it or an FFR builder who can benefit from the work already done and part it out more easily.
For those looking for an FFR donor…
I doubt you can find a better donor. That's why I bought it. Good enough shape to use as a daily donor while I waited to order the kit. I've put less that 20k miles on it. Yes, $4.6 CAD ($4k USD) is a lot for a donor, but think about what you're getting. Rebuilt strong engine, 5 bolt conversion, 3.55 gears. Lots of good parts that you can sell to make up for the purchase price.
Why trust a guy who hasn't posted here? I've mostly only lurked here, but am active on other boards. Refer to my listings on FFCobra.com & GTAMC forums. Just trying to the word as far as I can. It's a good car for either an FFR build or resto-mod. If not sold within a couple of months, it will be disassembled. I will keep the parts I need and scrap the rest.
Contact me by PM or email [wildswing at shaw.ca]
Asking $4,600 CAD ($4000 USD) As-is, where-is.
Located in Sault Ste Marie, Ontario. Where's that? Click the pic...
Purchased in Michigan Sept/05. All major modifications done by previous owner. Unfortunately he was not much of a gear head so he did not keep receipts or spec sheets. Asterisks (?) mark those mystery parts & specs. It's the type of pistons and cam that are the main questions. Previous owner said rebuilt engine had about 3k miles when I bought it.
Under 173k miles on chassis est. based on CarFax report (5 digit odo). Less than 20k miles on rebuilt engine and rear end*. I bought it with a little over 157k showing. Not perfect but works fine where it counts. Runs strong. Has been my daily driver for the last 3+ summers. Driven to London ON, Flint, Traverse City without any issues. Been reliable and a lot of fun. Hate to let it go, but other priorities are getting in the way. Lots of pictures and a video posted on my Photobucket site…
Link to Pictures
Link to dyno tune video
Details:
* 5.0L
* Bored .30 over - not original engine (?)
* Original owner said engine was built ready for nitrous or blower (?) More on that later.
* Edelbrock Performer RPM intake.
* Edelbrock Performer heads - casting number in pics - Edelbrock tech cannot confirm but suspect they are 2.02 intake.
* Crane 1.6 Energizer roller rockers.
* Aftermarket cam (?) - suspect Edelbrock, fairly lumpy, she bucks under 2k rpm.
* 24 lb injectors.
* stock fuel pump (?)
* Dyno tuned at Alternative Auto on regular gas for drivability. Original owner had installed an "Air Adjuster" between MAS and harness to fool the EEC. Did not run as well at part throttle. Lidio (tuner), at Alternative, was surprised, even with regular gas that he could not get more hp considering the top end parts and sound of cam. Agreed with my suspicion of dished pistons (supported by previous owners comment about it being nitrous or blower ready). Previous owner provided his own dyno sheet showing more hp (incl in pics) but that was with large diameter exhaust, and done on a different dyno.
* FMS polished valve covers. I added a baffle to drivers side to stop oil from soaking breather.
* BBK 70 mm TB.
* Stock MAS.
* Summit aluminum rad (universal).
* 180 degree stat.
* FRPP AC delete kit (replaced original home made version that broke)
* Cold air kit.
* MSD distributor & FRPP wires & new plugs.
* Accel coil.
* Long tube headers & custom, fully welded exhaust with resonators, crossover & Flowmasters. Replaced what I bought the car with from headers back.
* Mastercraft battery 1 yr old.
* T5 with Hurst shifter.
* Aluminum driveshaft.
* 8.8 limited slip rear with 3.55 gears.
* 5 bolt conversion (still uses fox spindles & brakes).
* Cervini cowl hood with hood pins. Pins are not located perfectly but they work fine. I added a safety latch.
* Polished stainless "Mustang GT" lettering on rear valence.
* Polished aluminum American Eagle Alloy rims.
* 245/45 R17 General Exclaim UHP tires with lots of rubber left. Bought last summer.
* 2 x 1/4" Ford steering rack limiters on each side (to prevent further wheel rub).
* Pioneer CD player MP3 capable. New pioneer speakers. 2-way in doors, 3-way in back. Nothing special (aka Wal-Mart special) but it works.
* White face dash gauge overlay. U.S. car so speedometermeter is in MPH with small KPH.
Extras that come with the car...
* Air pump bought from GTAMC member but never used.
* Fan shroud and overflow also bought from GTAMC member but never used. One overflow mounting ear broken.
* OEM '90 Ford Mustang repair manuals.
* 5 bolt donut spare w/ non oem jack & handle & can of fix-a-flat
* Header gaskets & bolts
* Extra center cap for rims
What's wrong with the car...
* Minor oil leak from front of engine, possibly timing cover/pan gasket. Few drops under the car overnight (found on clean cardboard in the morning). Have kept my eye on it. Not serious enough for me to worry about. Keep oil topped up and changed every fall before storage. 20W50 & Ford FL-1 filter
* Minor (& occasional) coolant leak. Again, found on cardboard left under car overnight. Not always there. Since there's no overflow, I've kept it topped up anyway.
* No smog pump or cats
* Interior lights, incl map light, don't work.
* Rarely, the power windows, if rolled all the way down, won't come back up right away. Don't know cause because every time when I've tried to troubleshoot, it would come back up. Tired of chasing my tail. Solved by leaving a little bit of window sticking up from door.
* Power door lock solenoids missing but all wiring is there.
* Slight rub on inside of a couple of the wheels from before I added the rack limiters. They hold air just fine.
* Not correct rad for Fox but works well. No overflow. I top it up once in a while when I remember. Rarely gets over the M in "normal". Does not overheat, however it proved it's capable of overheating when it tossed the belt a few years back when original home-made AC delete bracket broke.
* Front outboard passenger side valve cover bolt hole in head is stripped. Does not leak.
* PCV valve weeps oil from around grommet. Needs a baffle.
* Driver side O2 sensor missing. EEC tuned in open loop anyway so not required. After getting home from Alternative, I found out that the tech at alternative removed the sensor but did not replace it. Excuse was it must have broken off. Dangling connector ended up melting against header. It's now tie wrapped under the hood
* Most significant rust is bottom of driver's foot box. Some very small bubbles on hatch. Otherwise very clean.
* Crack in passenger side of rear valence and passenger side of front air dam
* Lots of little paint chips, some peeling spots and some paint cracking on nose of hood and rear valance.
* Missing some interior trim and all rear compartment carpet
* Transmission speedometer gear is still oem (for 3.27 gears best guess). With the 3.55 gears, the speedometer reads about 14% fast according to trip odometer & I-75 mile markers.
* No rear quad shocks. I assume because they would not fit with current wheel width & offset.
* Limited slip still works, but could do with a refresh. Can still deposit 2 blacks marks when required
Why haven't I fixed all this stuff?
Shouldn't be too hard, right? I bought the car for the sole purpose of driving it for a few summers (it's never seen snow as long as I've owned it) then parting it out, keeping the important parts for a Factory Five Roadster (Shelby cobra replica) build… Mk3 Roadster. I have maintained the car as necessary to get me to that point, without adding unnecessary cost but not abusing it either. Thus, I have not put much effort into the things that the FFR would not need, like cosmetics. All my attention has been on maintaining the eventual donor parts. Having mystery parts in the engine has not been an issue, since it runs well and reliably. The plan was to inspect those things when I did the teardown. The slight leaks have not been an issue. You'll see the wet pan in the pics. I add about 1/2 quart of oil a month.
Why am I selling?
I've wanted to build a Cobra replica for 30 years, so the FFR build is still on my radar. Unfortunately, real life keeps getting in the way. The project won't start for at least another 2 years, so the car is worth more to me now as a complete sale then what I can part it out for now and some parts in the corner of the garage saved for later. The market for the leftovers is not very good here in the Soo and shipping charges to larger markets makes selling bigger parts long distance difficult. The reasonable choice is to sell as-is to someone who can either restore and enjoy it or an FFR builder who can benefit from the work already done and part it out more easily.
For those looking for an FFR donor…
I doubt you can find a better donor. That's why I bought it. Good enough shape to use as a daily donor while I waited to order the kit. I've put less that 20k miles on it. Yes, $4.6 CAD ($4k USD) is a lot for a donor, but think about what you're getting. Rebuilt strong engine, 5 bolt conversion, 3.55 gears. Lots of good parts that you can sell to make up for the purchase price.
Why trust a guy who hasn't posted here? I've mostly only lurked here, but am active on other boards. Refer to my listings on FFCobra.com & GTAMC forums. Just trying to the word as far as I can. It's a good car for either an FFR build or resto-mod. If not sold within a couple of months, it will be disassembled. I will keep the parts I need and scrap the rest.
Contact me by PM or email [wildswing at shaw.ca]
08-05-2009, 09:54 PM
#2
CMOC Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sault Ste Marie
Posts: 2
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07-05-2009 09:35 PM
