Show, Shine & Audio This forum is for discussion of all appearance and audio related topics, and for Show Car preparation information

Polishing Your Engine

Thread Tools
 
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #11  
JuMPy's Avatar
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 218
From: Kitchener Ontario
Originally Posted by 89LXStang
Talk to Jumpy he's on the board.He knows a thing or two about making things shiney.

Biz you should have thought of that.........................
Thanks Kev......I think I might have polished a chunk of aluminum or two ...LOL

For the "white Fluffies" you are mentioning, the best fix is prevention, use a good polishing paste such as
Mothers, Flitz or Symchrome (this is the one I use), in the fall, and it will protect you over the winter from getting those white spots. But to get rid of them, as long as they are not to bad, use that same polishing paste and a soft buff ball on the end of a drill, and it will take it off no problem.

4 CRUZEN, polishing can be labour intensive, especially if you do it by hand. The proper equipment cuts this down to a fraction of the time. As I mentioned, try using a polishing paste first in conjunction with a buff ball on a drill. If it still does not come out, the corrosion has likely seeped into the pores of the aluminum, and a light sand and rebuff will be required.

Heres a pic of my own motor, if you need someone to do the polishing, shoot me a PM, I can do this for you.....lord knows I've done a few

Motor pic
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 09:08 AM
  #12  
89LXStang's Avatar
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 376
From: St.Thomas
That pic does not do your work justice.You need to see it live to realize the work done.................
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 12:11 PM
  #13  
4 CRUZEN's Avatar
Thread Starter
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 307
From: Eastern Ontario on the mighty St. Lawrence,
Jumpy - Metal Polishing

I understand using the polsihing wax and ball once you have your parts,alternater, engine block etc. cleaned and shinny however how do you get them to that state. I don't mind the work I will do a little at a time. Did you use a soft polishing stone or fibre wheel? I wish I lived closer I would like to see the wheels.
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 12:25 PM
  #14  
JuMPy's Avatar
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 218
From: Kitchener Ontario
ya...I just noticed your location

its a bit to explain, and as much of it is practice as it is method, but when I polish I go through a multiple step process, which includes a 2 stage buff. I use several different media and buff types along with different buff compounds. It depends on the alloy hardness and type of part. ( I have a lot of buffing "stuff" ...LOL)

Best way to make it basic (for a first time do it yourselfer) is you need to smooth the surface using media such as sand paper, to fine finish (800-1000 grit), then you use a buffing compound on a soft wheel to bring out the shine. For most the buffing part is easy, go to princess auto and get one of their wheels and buffing compound bars, and this will get you decent results (I say decent, because their stuff is only "OK"), what really throws people is the smoothing, they don't realize how hard it is to sand out casting marks and imperfections (especially in cracks, corners, and small nooks), this is where technique and proper tools cuts the job down to a fraction of the time then doing it by hand.
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 12:57 PM
  #15  
89LXStang's Avatar
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 376
From: St.Thomas
I've got an intake and a couple of valve covers that need to be done.But to late now.We'll talk John........................
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #16  
2000BLKGT's Avatar
CMOC Postaholic
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,366
Originally Posted by JuMPy
ya...I just noticed your location

its a bit to explain, and as much of it is practice as it is method, but when I polish I go through a multiple step process, which includes a 2 stage buff. I use several different media and buff types along with different buff compounds. It depends on the alloy hardness and type of part. ( I have a lot of buffing "stuff" ...LOL)

Best way to make it basic (for a first time do it yourselfer) is you need to smooth the surface using media such as sand paper, to fine finish (800-1000 grit), then you use a buffing compound on a soft wheel to bring out the shine. For most the buffing part is easy, go to princess auto and get one of their wheels and buffing compound bars, and this will get you decent results (I say decent, because their stuff is only "OK"), what really throws people is the smoothing, they don't realize how hard it is to sand out casting marks and imperfections (especially in cracks, corners, and small nooks), this is where technique and proper tools cuts the job down to a fraction of the time then doing it by hand.
I'm not ashamed to say...reading that got me a bit arroused
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 01:31 PM
  #17  
JuMPy's Avatar
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 218
From: Kitchener Ontario
I'm not surprised Tim ....LMAO
.
.
.
.
......... when ever your ready Kev
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 01:46 PM
  #18  
4 CRUZEN's Avatar
Thread Starter
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 307
From: Eastern Ontario on the mighty St. Lawrence,
Buffing or Polishing whichever turns you on!!!2000BLKGT

I think I will get a couple old parts (brake calibres or something) and try it first before I go at my alternator and engine block! Thanks for all your help sounds like a lot of work but by the look of your engine bay it is worth it.
Old Mar 11, 2006 | 06:40 PM
  #19  
krazpny's Avatar
CMOC Rookie
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 174
From: hamilton
i polished my intake and pony's once...let me tell ya the worst freaking thing ever..but the end result was awesome..
Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #20  
89LXStang's Avatar
CMOC Veteran
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 376
From: St.Thomas
Originally Posted by JuMPy
I'm not surprised Tim ....LMAO
.
.
.
.
......... when ever your ready Kev
How long would it roughly take?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:36 AM.