25-35rwhp from a CAI??
01-28-2005, 01:41 PM
#11
CMOC Addict
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 536
Originally Posted by slow5.0
They get so much hp from them by installing them and running them on the dyno before the computer has a chance to relearn, there for they run very lean at first (some even stall).
People are not out to lie, cheat and steal....honest people do exist and his products to work VERY VERY WELL
01-28-2005, 03:35 PM
#12
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 101
Originally Posted by meister@steeda.ca
This is completly false information and I will back up Tucker (JLT True Cold Air Products Maker and all manufacturers). The second the battery is disconnected, the computer's memory is cleared and any learned information is dumped. This was done for all testing and what most manufacturers do before testing.
People are not out to lie, cheat and steal....honest people do exist and his products to work VERY VERY WELL
People are not out to lie, cheat and steal....honest people do exist and his products to work VERY VERY WELL
I'm just passing on info from another site, It was discused in great length and I was under the impression that it took about 15min for the computer to relearn. After the computer relearns people were saying that the gain was more like 9-11 hp.
Just my $0.02
01-29-2005, 02:40 PM
#14
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 138
From extensive dyno/realworld testing we only use 5 CAI's now. From Cobra's to F150's of even Diesels.
K&N (sealed or OEM Replacement)
Steeda ( FULL heat shield type only)
MAC (FULL heat shield type only)
C&L ( FULL heat shield type only)
AFE (sealed)
Yes you can get 30rwhp from a CAI. this is quite common with the cheap FIPK kit with the 04 SVT Cobra.
GT's! ha 8rwhp! N/A or show me more!
Kenny Bell put it well:
Right there on the list [of most ridiculous products] has to be those "underhood exposed filters" that suck in 200° underhood air instead of ambient (70°-100° air from the fenderwell). 10° air temp rise is -1% HP. That's how dynos are calibrated for temperature changes. Does anyone really believe that all those OEM manufacturers designed expensive plastic inlet systems - for the last 20 years - that pull cool air from the fenderwell, hood or grill because they didn't have anything else to spend their money on?"
JLT is a decent cheap/inexpensive product for the consumer however we believe in an almost closed/sealed type unit. In the real world driving Temp's of 200deg are not uncommon in the engine bay under the hood. You cannot get away from physics?
10deg of heat is one 1rwhp ADD 130 deg's over the the outside ambient and you could be actually losing HP over OEM.
Steeda and MAC are very good FULL Heat Shield type Units. The results have been very good! from realworld to Dyno! Really the Sealed units are the best though!
JLT gives you the option of only a partial heat shield. However it all depends on what the customer wants! some like Stangs to look better then perform better.
Great performance.. Great looks! is what we strive for!.... you can have both!
Also Watch four the min. 4" rule before the MAF on Fenderwell Kits. Min of 4" before the MAf Sensor to ensure a proper Airflow reading.
Look at the Steeda and C&L Design's they work similar to the OEM setup for this reason.
Draw are in through the Fenderwell without a bend Pre MAF.
To each thier own!
K&N (sealed or OEM Replacement)
Steeda ( FULL heat shield type only)
MAC (FULL heat shield type only)
C&L ( FULL heat shield type only)
AFE (sealed)
Yes you can get 30rwhp from a CAI. this is quite common with the cheap FIPK kit with the 04 SVT Cobra.
GT's! ha 8rwhp! N/A or show me more!
Kenny Bell put it well:
Right there on the list [of most ridiculous products] has to be those "underhood exposed filters" that suck in 200° underhood air instead of ambient (70°-100° air from the fenderwell). 10° air temp rise is -1% HP. That's how dynos are calibrated for temperature changes. Does anyone really believe that all those OEM manufacturers designed expensive plastic inlet systems - for the last 20 years - that pull cool air from the fenderwell, hood or grill because they didn't have anything else to spend their money on?"
JLT is a decent cheap/inexpensive product for the consumer however we believe in an almost closed/sealed type unit. In the real world driving Temp's of 200deg are not uncommon in the engine bay under the hood. You cannot get away from physics?
10deg of heat is one 1rwhp ADD 130 deg's over the the outside ambient and you could be actually losing HP over OEM.
Steeda and MAC are very good FULL Heat Shield type Units. The results have been very good! from realworld to Dyno! Really the Sealed units are the best though!
JLT gives you the option of only a partial heat shield. However it all depends on what the customer wants! some like Stangs to look better then perform better.
Great performance.. Great looks! is what we strive for!.... you can have both!
Also Watch four the min. 4" rule before the MAF on Fenderwell Kits. Min of 4" before the MAf Sensor to ensure a proper Airflow reading.
Look at the Steeda and C&L Design's they work similar to the OEM setup for this reason.
Draw are in through the Fenderwell without a bend Pre MAF.
To each thier own!
Last edited by techrtm; 01-29-2005 at 02:47 PM.
01-29-2005, 07:26 PM
#15
CMOC Addict
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 536
JLT Makes a Full in the fender CAI, as well as his RAI which sits in the engine bay
JLT's intake has proven to reduce temperatures and pickup power over almost everything available....it was written up in the MM&FF a month or so ago.
I love the steeda intake and think it is one of the best, but the JLT setup in the fender is really amazing.
JLT's intake has proven to reduce temperatures and pickup power over almost everything available....it was written up in the MM&FF a month or so ago.
I love the steeda intake and think it is one of the best, but the JLT setup in the fender is really amazing.
01-29-2005, 08:26 PM
#16
we made 28RWHP
byremoving the stock air box and adding a 12" K&N to my 04 Cobra...we cnc'd a plate to bolt the filter onto and connect to the MAF. Cheapest mod ever...plate free, Filter $60.00...
byremoving the stock air box and adding a 12" K&N to my 04 Cobra...we cnc'd a plate to bolt the filter onto and connect to the MAF. Cheapest mod ever...plate free, Filter $60.00...
01-29-2005, 10:09 PM
#17
CMOC Addict
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: on the bottom!
Posts: 711
Originally Posted by Bizness
we made 28RWHP
byremoving the stock air box and adding a 12" K&N to my 04 Cobra...we cnc'd a plate to bolt the filter onto and connect to the MAF. Cheapest mod ever...plate free, Filter $60.00...
byremoving the stock air box and adding a 12" K&N to my 04 Cobra...we cnc'd a plate to bolt the filter onto and connect to the MAF. Cheapest mod ever...plate free, Filter $60.00...
01-31-2005, 11:42 PM
#19
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 138
Like I said to each there own! Kudo's for the MAF Plate! they retail for $50bucks
However just observations! dyno testing with twin Fans blowing ambient air and a Cold Stang with an open don't make for real world driving conditions.
On the Track it might even help more then a closed system. But at stop lights after driving for 60min might be another story!
However just observations! dyno testing with twin Fans blowing ambient air and a Cold Stang with an open don't make for real world driving conditions.
On the Track it might even help more then a closed system. But at stop lights after driving for 60min might be another story!
01-31-2005, 11:54 PM
#20
CMOC Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 89
Open element filters work well, only because of more air flow, put a shield around it and it will help shield it from fan wash and some heat. Fender mounts work as long as the maff is in the fender to and doesnt bend. CAI's like the MAC fender mount and the WMS inlets arent so good as they tend to cause an increased air speed on one side of tube, due to bend, this causes an inacurate maff signal. I like the straight shot type of filter for ease of maintainance and when we race a pulled headlamp help get more cold air to the filter. If it is in the fender most people will not service it, and god forbid it comes loose :cry2: cant see it in the fender, if you cant see it it is clean and installed correctly right?? I work at a dealer and alot of peopel ignore the maintainace of filters in fenderwhel
