What would be causing this.***UPDATE***
07-02-2007, 01:56 PM
#1
What would be causing this.***UPDATE***
Still trying to work out the bugs in my car.
I started it up again today after a week, and it idled great. i was on empty, so i figured i would take it for a short drive down to sunoco.
Temp was at about 130 when i started driving it.
I drove it down nice and easy. pulled into the station, and threw a half tank of 94 in it.
started it up and started driving back, and started running like complete crap again.
sounded like it was missing, and bogging.
i was easy on it the whole way.
It did this to me the last time i drove it. ran great until we were driving for a few minutes.
why would it do this after it got warmed up all the way and driving?
I started it up again today after a week, and it idled great. i was on empty, so i figured i would take it for a short drive down to sunoco.
Temp was at about 130 when i started driving it.
I drove it down nice and easy. pulled into the station, and threw a half tank of 94 in it.
started it up and started driving back, and started running like complete crap again.
sounded like it was missing, and bogging.
i was easy on it the whole way.
It did this to me the last time i drove it. ran great until we were driving for a few minutes.
why would it do this after it got warmed up all the way and driving?
07-03-2007, 01:31 AM
#3
Nope has nothing to do with any of that! Warren you need a tune! Your computer is all fucked up!
Have you put new O2's in it yet?
Find someone with the same setup if not a little close and run there tune!
try your svtperformance site, or even try eectuning.org and ask the guys on there..... maybe they can help you!
Did you read the entire manual?
http://www.sctflash.com/forum/attach...0&d=1132504812
You have a fresh rebuilt engine, new injectors, new MAF new everything so it has to be the eec.
No tune no run.
That car must see Steeda or someone with a dyno.
Have you put new O2's in it yet?
Find someone with the same setup if not a little close and run there tune!
try your svtperformance site, or even try eectuning.org and ask the guys on there..... maybe they can help you!
Did you read the entire manual?
http://www.sctflash.com/forum/attach...0&d=1132504812
You have a fresh rebuilt engine, new injectors, new MAF new everything so it has to be the eec.
No tune no run.
That car must see Steeda or someone with a dyno.
07-03-2007, 04:33 PM
#6
ok, i was kinda suspecting my one coil pack, BECAUSE the clip broke of when i removed it last year. i did have it soldered back on at an electronics place.
Fuel pump is throwing a code, but it is a brand new walbro 255LPH HP.
If it is the tune, why would it not run like crap ALL the time?
Fuel pump is throwing a code, but it is a brand new walbro 255LPH HP.
If it is the tune, why would it not run like crap ALL the time?
07-03-2007, 08:25 PM
#8
Warren its the EEC....
You need a tune!
There are 3 different computer controlled substances that you have no control over...
-Open Loop
-Closed Loop
- and Limp Mode
See your car is running great at one point then all of a sudden it runs like that is because the EEC automatically goes into one of these 3 modes...
"OPEN LOOP" = Fuel control when the EEC is relying on tables to control the fuel injectors.
"CLOSED LOOP" = Fuel control when the EEC is using the oxygen sensors as feedback to control the fuel injectors.
"LIMP MODE" = This comes in when your MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) {Also know as check engine light} comes on, so when one of your sensors bites the dust (O2's etc...) it goes into "LIMP MODE" which means it will tell the EEC to run like the last time it ran good.
"OL" = Open loop, not reading the O2 sensors
"CL" = Closed loop, reading the O2 sensors
"OL" vs. "CL" = Open loop, happens at first initial startup and lasts until 160* or 255 Seconds of warm up time witch ever is reached first. The Closed loop takes over unless the "load" on the engine is too great [or], a sensor malfunctions. Then it goes back to "OL".
Generally speaking you make better power/response in "OL", cause its that little bit richer at part throttle and lower loads, but you don't get as good gas mileage!
So those awesome engine codes your getting is BAD and the EEC is going all crazy and stuff.
I cant explain it anymore to you.
GET A DAMN TUNE lol.
Good luck Warren.
You need a tune!
There are 3 different computer controlled substances that you have no control over...
-Open Loop
-Closed Loop
- and Limp Mode
See your car is running great at one point then all of a sudden it runs like that is because the EEC automatically goes into one of these 3 modes...
"OPEN LOOP" = Fuel control when the EEC is relying on tables to control the fuel injectors.
"CLOSED LOOP" = Fuel control when the EEC is using the oxygen sensors as feedback to control the fuel injectors.
"LIMP MODE" = This comes in when your MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) {Also know as check engine light} comes on, so when one of your sensors bites the dust (O2's etc...) it goes into "LIMP MODE" which means it will tell the EEC to run like the last time it ran good.
"OL" = Open loop, not reading the O2 sensors
"CL" = Closed loop, reading the O2 sensors
"OL" vs. "CL" = Open loop, happens at first initial startup and lasts until 160* or 255 Seconds of warm up time witch ever is reached first. The Closed loop takes over unless the "load" on the engine is too great [or], a sensor malfunctions. Then it goes back to "OL".
Generally speaking you make better power/response in "OL", cause its that little bit richer at part throttle and lower loads, but you don't get as good gas mileage!
So those awesome engine codes your getting is BAD and the EEC is going all crazy and stuff.
I cant explain it anymore to you.
GET A DAMN TUNE lol.
Good luck Warren.
07-04-2007, 02:59 PM
#9
The Codes are:
P1232-Fuel Pump Speed Primary Circuit (Two speed fuel pump).
P0412-Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction.
I deleted my air injection, and i guess the "tuner" did not make correction for that in the tune.
The new fuel pump i bought from http://walbrofuelpumps.com/ and ordered the one marked "Ford Mustang Cobra 96-97"
Now I'm not saying i do not need a tune, i just want to make sure that i don't go up there on the dyno, and then they say, well it is "this" that is bad, then, charge me so much for the part and $100.00 dollars an hour to change it.
I just want to make sure i have all bases covered before.
P1232-Fuel Pump Speed Primary Circuit (Two speed fuel pump).
P0412-Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction.
I deleted my air injection, and i guess the "tuner" did not make correction for that in the tune.
The new fuel pump i bought from http://walbrofuelpumps.com/ and ordered the one marked "Ford Mustang Cobra 96-97"
Now I'm not saying i do not need a tune, i just want to make sure that i don't go up there on the dyno, and then they say, well it is "this" that is bad, then, charge me so much for the part and $100.00 dollars an hour to change it.
I just want to make sure i have all bases covered before.
