ZR 5.0

Your 600 carb is a fair bit tooooooooooo small to make serious H/P, track down a 650 dbl pmpr with 4 corner idle.

Stang Seller

If you're sticking with a 302 dont get the Victor Jr's unless you plan on running much higher compression. A 600 carb is pretty small, even with smaller Aluminum heads than the Victor Jr's. You'll need at least a 650DP. If I were you, I'd consult with a reputable engine builder such as Paul at PSP (416-285-7275). Please dont take offense, but it seems like you dont really have an idea of what it takes to get what you want out of this engine. Throwing a bunch of big expensive parts together doesnt necessarily mean they'll work in harmony or even well in your car. As an example, I've seen a guy with all the expensive goodies in his car and he was beaten fair and square by a stock headed albeit well setup '88 coupe. You dont want to put all this money into your engine if you wind up being beaten by a "mild" by comparison 302/306.
SS

Old School

iTrader: (1)

HAHA SS, the man never said anything about being a strip motor, so you're idea of being "BEAT" isn't quite complete. A decent motor/build/assembly, is only as good as what it's being used for. Putting a full out strip motor into street duty will perform like ***, but doesn't mean the motor is BAD!!!!!

As for the 600 not being enough, that's a bit of farce, its just about right for a good street motor, DPs are *** on the street A VS carb, tuned right, will out perform a DP any day on the street. With the Vac sec you actually have more tuneablity with the secondarys, allowing you tune to them to only function when need be (which will help fuel consumption too).
Same idea of those who lock out Vac advancing on street driven cars...

BUT I do agree with SS on the fact of hiering someone knowledged to recommend a complete build. "make a total game plan" and execute it in stages, you'll be happier in the long run

Stang Seller

Good point on the Vac Sec carb, I havent played with a carb in quite a while and I was never too good with em. I just know that when my car had a DP it worked really well, even on the street. As for building an all out race motor, I dont understand what you're getting at. I'm not saying the motor is going to be "bad", I'm just saying that for a street strip vehicle it wont be good (302, 9.5:1 compression, with a short runner intake and 2.05 intake valves?) and that if the parts are just the biggest pieces out there chances are it will be beaten by something with better matched parts. My friend went 11.9 with a 100 shot and stock ported heads and intake, Crower cam and long tubes. N/A the car ran 12.7x. I've seen guys with Edelbrock heads and intakes etc running low 13s to mid 12's. I'd rather run 12.7 with stock parts and save big $$$ than spend an extra $2-$3k to run 2 tenths quicker. My point is.... bigger isnt always better.
SS

ZR 5.0

Sorry a wee bit off topic but..................
My Dad's '68 Galaxie 500 with a 390 auto manages better than 25 mpg hwy and about 17mpg city with it's 650 dbl pmpr, when equipped with a 600 vac it had neither the performance or mileage it now has. The carb is a bore adapted to a square bore Streetmaster intake and has been used on it for better than 150,000 miles...............so far.
I've also had great sucess using center squirter carbs on multi carb street cars, no great mileage numbers but lots of totally streetable power.

Old School

iTrader: (1)

Not a fair comparison;....mmmmm yummy 6 liters LOL

Scones

iTrader: (2)

carb talk...

all i can say is that your exhaust ideas aren't all that...you want back pressure, maybe not stock h-pipe 4 cat back pressure, but at least a catted x/h-pipe or a chambered muffler to help with the low end tq and to keep you from burning up your valves...

T-MAD

Well I guess we will start that the beginning. I will not get into who’s ideas are right and who has the bigger d![k. anytime you go to the track you can find someone that has a different setup and will run different times, some better then yours some not better then yours but. If you have time to sit and talk about every small procedure behind building and engine I am sure I will find faults with your ideas just like you will find problems with mind. I guess that is what will make my stang different from yours (these statements are not being directed at anyone impiticular). Then we come to the driver. If we put two people in the same cars and had them race will it be a tie every time. No. So if someone were beaten by stock heads go to a empty parking lot and practice your start.
This is not the first time building an engine and I don’t think it will be the last but this IS the first time I have the money and the time to do what I want. This is why I would like to get as much information about everything as possible. I am not looking for a regurgitate version of a paper that someone else wrote (even though bring it to my attention still does influence my ideas) but what people have seen.
As for exhaust issues no I will not be running my pipes straight out the hood with 0 psi of back pressure I will not be running my engine at the rpm’s needed for that but I will be checking to make sure it falls around 4-5 psi for lower end torque. But some facts on are as such. The internal combustion engine is a complex, dynamic collection of different systems working together to convert the stored power in gasoline into mechanical energy to push a car down the road. Anytime one of these systems are modified, that mod will also indirectly affect the other systems, as well. Now, valve burning occurs as a result of a very lean-burning engine. In order to achieve a theoretical optimal combustion, an engine needs 14.7 parts of oxygen by mass to 1 part of gasoline (again, by mass). This is referred to as a stochiometric (chemically correct) mixture. So once you do your fluid dynamics and thermodynamics on the engine you will get a better idea of what you engine needs.

Don’t have what it takes to get what I want. Sheesh
T-MAD

Old School

iTrader: (1)

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