that makes 100% sense

 

Horn circuit current runs through the slip joint contacts of the steering wheel. Wire in a relay to handle the horn current. The slip contacts only have to handle the relay coil current.

 

Old thread but what the heck. The turn signal switch has the horn contacts in them they are spring loaded to push against the slip rings on the steering wheel. As others have noted the plastic gets brittle and these things stick up under the steering wheel. Crack they break and no horn! the broken piece might bob around in there and set the horn off as it rattles around as the wheel turns.

 

never to late lol

 

^^ Better late then never. LMAO

 

Hi guys,
I'm new to this site. I have a 67 and have a bit more work to do to it before it gets a trip to the shop for a safety.
I also have horn trouble, but am not sure if the horns that were sent with the cr are bad or something else. I took the centre piece off the steering wheel (I know lack of terminology) anyway I cleaned the pin contacts, horns dont work. So to test the horns I ran a wire from positive to the horn connector prong and a negative wire from the negative to where the horn would bolt onto the metal of the car. No action, no horn heard like that! Just wondering where to start from there or if I am wrong in my test process of the horns.

 

I replaced mine last year for the same reason. I purchased the Scott Drake unit from The Mustang Shop for $33.24 (OEM quality), complete with wiring to fit in existing harness connector. It was excellent quality, and worked great. Cheap fix for an annoying problem. Part # C50Z113341 BR

Scott Drake link for info.

Scott Drake Store - 1965-66 Mustang Turn Signal Switch (Reproduction)

 

I know this is an old post but I had and solved this same problem in my newly acquired '66 today. What I found to be the problem was one of the 2 spring loaded contacts that are part of the signal switch. The plate that they contact has a groove in it that separates the 2 copper contact plates and the spring loaded contact had worn down and it had developed a little ridge that was actually now riding in that groove and when the steering wheel was turned it would make contact with the other plate and blow the horn. I simply filed down that little ridge so that the contact was flat again and that fixed the problem, put it all back together and good to go...