Project: Cheap thrills
04-20-2016, 06:33 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: NS
Posts: 51
There's just something soooooo right about an engine on a stand in the garage. Just feels right and comforting to walk out and see it there. Like coming home....
And.....I've officially hit the nickle and dime phase.
I just sourced the ARP bolts for the flywheel and the pressure plate and spent almost as much as I did for the T5. Most of the cost was shipping costs to Canada and exchange, sourcing them locally meant paying even more than bringing them out of the states. Canada is definitely NOT a "car guy" friendly country. Never was. Too expensive to do anything automotive here, even just repairs.
Going with OEM ford stuff was priced just ridiculous. 14 bucks a bolt for the flywheel to crank bolts alone! NO THANK YOU!
But now I at least have enough to bolt it together and get it into the car.
It will be open exhaust after the H pipe and I'll still need a fuel pump and bend up some lines, but it will be (for the most part) together.
That's an important thing for me as you never know when they are going to move you in the military. All my cars have to at least be able to power themselves on to a car carrier or they don't move them....
Last edited by Great white; 04-20-2016 at 06:43 PM.
04-22-2016, 02:44 PM
#12
CMOC Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: NS
Posts: 51
So I've got hte parts list sorted out for the T5 swap:
1995 Mustang 3.8 T5 transmission, complete ($100, local purchase)
1989 F150 5.0 5 speed flywheel, 164 tooth, new (80 bucks, eBay)
1989 F150 5.0 5 Speed clutch and pressure plate kit, new (130 bucks, rockauto)
1995 Mustang 3.8 T5 clutch release bearing, new (25 bucks, rockauto) - because the one in the F150 kit is hydraulic, not cable.
1985 Mustang Clutch pedal and quadrant with switches - used (100 bucks, ebay)
Clutch cable, Ford Racing, Teflon lined, new (25 bucks, ebay)
ARP flywheel bolts, new (15 bucks, ebay)
ARP Pressure plate bolts,new (20 bucks, ebay)
Had to chuck in a replacement mini-starter too. That also came from rockauto and was around 40 bucks IIRC.
So that's all in for about 350 bucks.
Not bad for a C5 auto to WC T5 transmission. Plus, I get the 11" clutch to boot!
I've also discovered that rockauto shipments are probably the cheapest shipping I've ever found out of the States, has no "brokerage" fees and is about the fastest shipping I've had yet (outside of paying for overnight foolishness).
I'm never buying another part from a Canadian distributor ever again! Half the price at least on most parts (brand names instead of the generic crap they try to flog off on you here at twice the price) and delivery to my door. I just have to wait a couple days.
I'm all for supporting Canadian business, but when it's obvious they are adding a mark up what you would pay retail for brand names in the states, adding exchange, passing on the shipping costs to the buyer and still selling you the cheaper generic parts instead of the brand names to make even more profit, they can go to hell. That's just a cash grab and sticking it to the consumer. I feel no loyalty to bastards like that. Give it to me for a fair price while making a reasonable profit and we're do business.
Until then: Rockauto for me!
1995 Mustang 3.8 T5 transmission, complete ($100, local purchase)
1989 F150 5.0 5 speed flywheel, 164 tooth, new (80 bucks, eBay)
1989 F150 5.0 5 Speed clutch and pressure plate kit, new (130 bucks, rockauto)
1995 Mustang 3.8 T5 clutch release bearing, new (25 bucks, rockauto) - because the one in the F150 kit is hydraulic, not cable.
1985 Mustang Clutch pedal and quadrant with switches - used (100 bucks, ebay)
Clutch cable, Ford Racing, Teflon lined, new (25 bucks, ebay)
ARP flywheel bolts, new (15 bucks, ebay)
ARP Pressure plate bolts,new (20 bucks, ebay)
Had to chuck in a replacement mini-starter too. That also came from rockauto and was around 40 bucks IIRC.
So that's all in for about 350 bucks.
Not bad for a C5 auto to WC T5 transmission. Plus, I get the 11" clutch to boot!
I've also discovered that rockauto shipments are probably the cheapest shipping I've ever found out of the States, has no "brokerage" fees and is about the fastest shipping I've had yet (outside of paying for overnight foolishness).
I'm never buying another part from a Canadian distributor ever again! Half the price at least on most parts (brand names instead of the generic crap they try to flog off on you here at twice the price) and delivery to my door. I just have to wait a couple days.
I'm all for supporting Canadian business, but when it's obvious they are adding a mark up what you would pay retail for brand names in the states, adding exchange, passing on the shipping costs to the buyer and still selling you the cheaper generic parts instead of the brand names to make even more profit, they can go to hell. That's just a cash grab and sticking it to the consumer. I feel no loyalty to bastards like that. Give it to me for a fair price while making a reasonable profit and we're do business.
Until then: Rockauto for me!
Last edited by Great white; 04-22-2016 at 05:50 PM.
04-23-2016, 08:19 PM
#13
CMOC Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: NS
Posts: 51
WELL BLOODY F'N HELL!!!!!
Found where the water was getting in that rotted out the drivers floor panel.
I was hoping it was a split bead of seam sealer or perhaps where some leaves had piled up around the air bell in the cowl plenum and was wicking water up over the bell mouth.
And I was sort of right on both counts: there is a split seam sealer bead, but the big P-off is the cowl plenum floor is rotted out around the air bell right where those F'n leaves and tree crap had parked!
Now I have to do my most hated of tasks: rust repair.
and this is probably the worst place it could possibly be: the cowl.
I'll have to remove the fenders, hood, windshield and drill out a plethora of spot welds to remove the upper cowl just to get to it. And Gawd knows what else I will find down there once the upper cowl is off.
What a major PITA!
at least the windshield is already cracked so no big loss there.
But now I'll have to throw the drivetrain in and the car will be filling my one car garage all summer. I'll have to cram it into the back and fight for working space so I can still get my two motorcycles in there. Not to mention there will be no space at all for anything else I need to do. The garage is my only workspace for everything from metal working to carpentry.
GGGgrrrrrrrrrr..........I'm soooo PO'd!
All from sitting in a freaking field for a year and a half.........
Found where the water was getting in that rotted out the drivers floor panel.
I was hoping it was a split bead of seam sealer or perhaps where some leaves had piled up around the air bell in the cowl plenum and was wicking water up over the bell mouth.
And I was sort of right on both counts: there is a split seam sealer bead, but the big P-off is the cowl plenum floor is rotted out around the air bell right where those F'n leaves and tree crap had parked!
Now I have to do my most hated of tasks: rust repair.
and this is probably the worst place it could possibly be: the cowl.
I'll have to remove the fenders, hood, windshield and drill out a plethora of spot welds to remove the upper cowl just to get to it. And Gawd knows what else I will find down there once the upper cowl is off.
What a major PITA!
at least the windshield is already cracked so no big loss there.
But now I'll have to throw the drivetrain in and the car will be filling my one car garage all summer. I'll have to cram it into the back and fight for working space so I can still get my two motorcycles in there. Not to mention there will be no space at all for anything else I need to do. The garage is my only workspace for everything from metal working to carpentry.
GGGgrrrrrrrrrr..........I'm soooo PO'd!
All from sitting in a freaking field for a year and a half.........
Last edited by Great white; 04-23-2016 at 08:32 PM.
04-24-2016, 05:51 PM
#15
CMOC Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: NS
Posts: 51
Well, with the rusted cowl, I need to find some way of keeping the weather off it. I don't have room in the garage as it's a one car garage and full of motorcycles right now.
So I pulled out and old trailer cover we used to use on our 35 foot travel trailer before the wind in Nl tore it all the rat crap.
Started sewing and cutting, got to this point so far:
Not too shabby. Tomorrow I'll hem a pocket around the bottom and then thread a spool of bungee cord material I have through it. A couple tabs in the hem so I can run a couple cords underneath to ensure the wind can't rip it of and it's a done deal.
The trailer material is all from the trailer roof. That was the 4 layer material that was waterproof and breathable so it should do just fine in this application.
I may be able to get it in the garage for winter, but I'm still working that one out. It's either going to be very tight in there or I may store my bikes at the mother inlaw's (about 1.5 hrs away by highway).
I'm not sure if I can be that far away from my bikes for that long though.....
So I pulled out and old trailer cover we used to use on our 35 foot travel trailer before the wind in Nl tore it all the rat crap.
Started sewing and cutting, got to this point so far:
Not too shabby. Tomorrow I'll hem a pocket around the bottom and then thread a spool of bungee cord material I have through it. A couple tabs in the hem so I can run a couple cords underneath to ensure the wind can't rip it of and it's a done deal.
The trailer material is all from the trailer roof. That was the 4 layer material that was waterproof and breathable so it should do just fine in this application.
I may be able to get it in the garage for winter, but I'm still working that one out. It's either going to be very tight in there or I may store my bikes at the mother inlaw's (about 1.5 hrs away by highway).
I'm not sure if I can be that far away from my bikes for that long though.....
