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Aluminum Driveshaft for Automatic?

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Old 03-12-2013, 07:27 PM
  #11  
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The only thing you will be changing is the yoke, everything else stays on the shaft. So to answer you question, yest there will be new u joints, and yes you will be using them. All you are going to dois remove the C clips, and press off the caps that are holding on the yoke so you can swap your stock yoke over.
Got this from my search. This is how i have always done it with success.

This is how to change the rear ujoint on a 98 ranger 2 wheel drive.

First you will need-
1. a new u-joint
2. a heavy duty hammer
3. a 12mm wrench
4. some PB Blaster
5. one socket just the same size as the ujoint cap, no bigger
6. one socket large enough for the ujoint cap to slide into
7. a socket extension 5-7" about
8. needle nose plyers
9. flat head screw driver
10. Chalk or Marker

This job was much more intimidating than it actually was.

CAUTION-
First get the truck on a flat level serface, this is something that I did not do and really should have. Put the parking brake on and make sure its in gear! You dont need to jack it up but it may make it a little easier.
Next get under your truck and locate where the rear of the driveshaft bolts up to the rear end.
IMPORTANT- Take your marker or chalk and make a good solid line on the driveshaft all the way to the rear housing. This needs to be done to make sure that you put all the pieces back in the exact same way they came out. I guess the driveshaft is weighted or something, blah blah blah, look it up if you wanna know more. Anyways there should be 4 12mm bolts holding the rear part of the driveshaft up. Spray those 4 bolts with PB Blaster

Then after you let the PB Blaster do its majic then take the 4 12mm bolts an loosen them off.

CAUTION- when you removed the last bolt, be carefull not to have the rear of the driveshaft fall down on to you. The PB Blaster that you sprayed on there earlier should make it pretty easy to pull off, if not grab ur hammer and give it a couple even whacks around the sides.

Take a pair of needle nose pliers and pinch the c-clip, it helps to use a flat head screw driver to help pry it out at the same time. Do that for all four sides. Now with the 2 sockets, place the larger one on the ground or surface with one end of the ujoint over it, so that once punched through, the old cap will be sticking in the larger socket. And take the smaller socket with the extension on it and place it on the top ujoint cap. this socket should be just as big as the ujoint cap but no bigger. Then while holding it steady tap on the end of the extension to start driving the old caps down.

Once you have the cap tapped down about 1/2" or so you may be able to grab the bottom cap that is now sticking out with a pair of pliers and pull it the rest of the way off. With one cap off its down hill from here, just do the same for each of the 4 caps and its off!

Now with it all apart make sure you can still see your chalk marks and know which piece goes in which way. Also inspect the c-clip grooves and make sure they are free of any rust or debre.

Now take the new ujoint and remove the caps. Be CAREFULL not to disturb any of the pin bearing in each one, especially when you start tapping on them. Take the ujoint and cap and line it up on one side, doesnt matter which one you do first. The ujoint will be in the middle and the cap will slide in from the outside. Try to get the cap and ujoint lined up and then set it on the ground with the cap on the bottom and tap on the housing to drive the housing down and the cap inward. for the moment the ujoint will be still loose.

Now repeat the process for the opposite side, again being carefull to have it lined up so none of the pin bearing come out of place in the caps. Once the cap is seated you still need to get it in another 1/4" or so in order to put in the new c-clips. To do this take the smaller socket with extention again and tap, tap, tap just enough to get the groove for the c-clip exposed. Then take your needle nose pliers and flat head screwdriver and install the c-clip. repeat this process for all 4 sides and your almost done.

Take the driveshaft with newly installed ujoint and gently slide in the end into the rear of the transmission and make sure it is lined up in the same direction as when it was removed according to your lines that you had drew. once it is in place go ahead and insert the 4 12mm bolts back in and tighten them down.

Congrats you have installed a new ujoint in your ranger!
Here is a vid if you have a bench vise.


Hope this helps you.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:30 PM
  #12  
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Awesome man! Im new to this stuff so that step by step write up will definetly help! And I got a bench vice so bingo! I'll let you know how it goes!
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:39 PM
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No prob's at all. Hope it goes well for you. It's farely simple. When i first had to do a u joint, there was nothing to go by back then, learned all on my own..... not saying that i'm that old mind you LOL!!! But today there is so much out there to learn from when it comes to the internet be it you tube, or message boards.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:52 PM
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I hope it does too, I guess we it wouldn't drive far if it didn't lol! I get what you mean we get the power of youtube nowadays to teach us if we are completely clueless lol. I'll post a pic or something when im done!
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:37 PM
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Nice 1LOW. Props for that.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:55 PM
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Thanks bro. Much appriciated.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:22 PM
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I agree, thanks again! I'm making my attempt this weekend!
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by VAEM
Nice 1LOW. Props for that.
X2 I always forget about that
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:40 PM
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I think we all forget LOL, and thanks too Chad.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:31 AM
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That's what makes this place so awesome....all the helpful people, that have no problem sharing their knowledge. Nice job 1Low
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