Wet Nitrous Kit
04-22-2009, 11:22 PM
#11
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Kelowna BC
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Nitrous is plumbed into the intake and there it passes into the cylinder head where the combustion occurs. On “wet” kits, nitrous is mixed with fuel and then injected into the intake. On “dry” kits, nitrous is injected before the mass air sensor. (a.k.a. MAF) The maf records the amount of air coming into the engine, and then sends a signal to the fuel injectors to send the right amount of fuel to not be lean or rich.
Wet vs. Dry Kits
As stated above, wet kits mix nitrous with fuel before injecting into the intake. There are two types of wet kits, fogger, and direct port.
Fogger systems are the most common for the V6 mustang. A fogger nozzle (like the one in the picture above) is inserted into the intake tubing just before the throttle body. The fuel and nitrous mix inside of the nozzle to produce a fog that is sprayed into the intake hosing. The fog then mixes with the rest of the air going into the upper intake.
Direct port is the same premise, just with a fogger for each cylinder. These foggers inject the fog after the lower intake and right before the combustion chamber. The picture above is one on an LT1 lower intake. The reason to do direct port is safety, and larger shots. When running a large shot (125+ in the case for a V6 mustang) the nitrous/fuel mixture can easily pool in one cylinder. After all, it is just moving with the air, you cannot expect it to split exactly evenly in the upper intake. You want the nitrous to be spaced evenly to achieve the most power. The fogger systems are not generally recommended above a 150 shot. This also helps with the tuning aspect. Each cylinder can be tuned independently of each other.
Dry kits plumb the nitrous before the maf, as stated above. They do not mix nitrous with fuel before injecting into the intake. This type of system relies on the maf and the fuel injectors to compensate for the extra air in the system. The fogger nozzle is the only method of delivery for a dry kit. One cannot get a dry direct port kit.
Wet kits are presumed to be the safest kits. This is because you do not have to rely on your maf and your injectors. If the maf does not pick up the extra air, the injectors will not put extra fuel into the mix and you will run really lean. (bad news). On the V6, the models made in 1998 and prior can use the dry kits safer than the models made in 1999 and after. The reason is, in 1999, Ford switched from a return style fuel system (where the excess fuel not burned is returned to the fuel tank) to a returnless style fuel system. On the pre99s, the fuel pressure regulator can be adjusted to increase the amount of fuel. And since the fuel is just returned, it’s not a huge deal. On the 99+s however, the returnless style makes the maf calculate the exact amount needed. The fuel pressure cannot be changed very easily and you need a very good dynotune to run a dry kit on a 99+. The wet systems can be run safer on both styles because the fuel is already mixed with the nitrous in the proper amount. This eliminates the worry about the maf and the injectors. However, the worry for the fuel pressure is higher than in the dry system. The fuel that is mixed with the nitrous in the fogger nozzle is taken from the fuel rail. If there is a solenoid leak (will discuss solenoids later), the fuel would be exiting thru there and your fuel pressure would drop. This is very rare and can be countered by either a Fuel Safety Cut-Off Switch or a fuel pressure gauge (will discuss safety later).
For the V6 mustangs, as well as all cars, I suggest wet kits over all dry kits.
Wet vs. Dry Kits
As stated above, wet kits mix nitrous with fuel before injecting into the intake. There are two types of wet kits, fogger, and direct port.
Fogger systems are the most common for the V6 mustang. A fogger nozzle (like the one in the picture above) is inserted into the intake tubing just before the throttle body. The fuel and nitrous mix inside of the nozzle to produce a fog that is sprayed into the intake hosing. The fog then mixes with the rest of the air going into the upper intake.
Direct port is the same premise, just with a fogger for each cylinder. These foggers inject the fog after the lower intake and right before the combustion chamber. The picture above is one on an LT1 lower intake. The reason to do direct port is safety, and larger shots. When running a large shot (125+ in the case for a V6 mustang) the nitrous/fuel mixture can easily pool in one cylinder. After all, it is just moving with the air, you cannot expect it to split exactly evenly in the upper intake. You want the nitrous to be spaced evenly to achieve the most power. The fogger systems are not generally recommended above a 150 shot. This also helps with the tuning aspect. Each cylinder can be tuned independently of each other.
Dry kits plumb the nitrous before the maf, as stated above. They do not mix nitrous with fuel before injecting into the intake. This type of system relies on the maf and the fuel injectors to compensate for the extra air in the system. The fogger nozzle is the only method of delivery for a dry kit. One cannot get a dry direct port kit.
Wet kits are presumed to be the safest kits. This is because you do not have to rely on your maf and your injectors. If the maf does not pick up the extra air, the injectors will not put extra fuel into the mix and you will run really lean. (bad news). On the V6, the models made in 1998 and prior can use the dry kits safer than the models made in 1999 and after. The reason is, in 1999, Ford switched from a return style fuel system (where the excess fuel not burned is returned to the fuel tank) to a returnless style fuel system. On the pre99s, the fuel pressure regulator can be adjusted to increase the amount of fuel. And since the fuel is just returned, it’s not a huge deal. On the 99+s however, the returnless style makes the maf calculate the exact amount needed. The fuel pressure cannot be changed very easily and you need a very good dynotune to run a dry kit on a 99+. The wet systems can be run safer on both styles because the fuel is already mixed with the nitrous in the proper amount. This eliminates the worry about the maf and the injectors. However, the worry for the fuel pressure is higher than in the dry system. The fuel that is mixed with the nitrous in the fogger nozzle is taken from the fuel rail. If there is a solenoid leak (will discuss solenoids later), the fuel would be exiting thru there and your fuel pressure would drop. This is very rare and can be countered by either a Fuel Safety Cut-Off Switch or a fuel pressure gauge (will discuss safety later).
For the V6 mustangs, as well as all cars, I suggest wet kits over all dry kits.
also want to add yes this is specific to a V6 stang but the general concept applies from 2-12 cylinders
04-22-2009, 11:25 PM
#12
CMOC Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 421
Did you write that or copy and paste it? Because you obviously know nothing about dry kits because that article is wrong. Dry kits are not plumbed before the mass air. The mass air cannot measure the amount of oxygen in a nitrous molecule because it has not been released yet.
The kit your talking about does not rely on the maf to spike pressure, it has a seperate ecu that hooks into the tps and o2 sensors to fool the engine ecu to add more fuel.
A nitrous molecule requires heat to "break" up and release its oxygen, which is why it is not flammable in open air.
That article is complete crap, and you should not be giving advice based on it.
Trust me, you have no idea how wrong the statements in this article are.
The kit your talking about does not rely on the maf to spike pressure, it has a seperate ecu that hooks into the tps and o2 sensors to fool the engine ecu to add more fuel.
A nitrous molecule requires heat to "break" up and release its oxygen, which is why it is not flammable in open air.
That article is complete crap, and you should not be giving advice based on it.
Trust me, you have no idea how wrong the statements in this article are.
Last edited by nickm50; 04-22-2009 at 11:52 PM.
04-22-2009, 11:48 PM
#13
The traditional NOS dry kit for the 5.0L Mustang is the well-known NOS 05115. It is the kit Nickm50 above ran for a number of years without issue.
It uses bottle pressure through a servo to spike the fuel pressure based on bottle pressure. This means that as bottle pressure goes down, so does the amount of fuel spiked to the engine.
It is a VERY safe kit, and probably the best known "basic" kit for the 5.0L EFI cars.
There is NOTHING to do with the MAF and this kit, nor the similar ZEX kit, which is slightly less complex.
It uses bottle pressure through a servo to spike the fuel pressure based on bottle pressure. This means that as bottle pressure goes down, so does the amount of fuel spiked to the engine.
It is a VERY safe kit, and probably the best known "basic" kit for the 5.0L EFI cars.
There is NOTHING to do with the MAF and this kit, nor the similar ZEX kit, which is slightly less complex.
04-22-2009, 11:57 PM
#14
I will add to the above that I have found information on the dry kits that spray across the MAF, and the idea of that setup is quite scary.
The 5.0L EFI Mustang crowd is VERY luck to have a kit actually pioneered FOR OUR SPECIFIC SETUP, the NOS 05115, providing a reliable and easy to install dry kit with a solid reputation in terms of results on these cars.
The 5.0L EFI Mustang crowd is VERY luck to have a kit actually pioneered FOR OUR SPECIFIC SETUP, the NOS 05115, providing a reliable and easy to install dry kit with a solid reputation in terms of results on these cars.
04-22-2009, 11:59 PM
#15
CMOC Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 421
I will add to the above that I have found information on the dry kits that spray across the MAF, and the idea of that setup is quite scary.
The 5.0L EFI Mustang crowd is VERY luck to have a kit actually pioneered FOR OUR SPECIFIC SETUP, the NOS 05115, providing a reliable and easy to install dry kit with a solid reputation in terms of results on these cars.
The 5.0L EFI Mustang crowd is VERY luck to have a kit actually pioneered FOR OUR SPECIFIC SETUP, the NOS 05115, providing a reliable and easy to install dry kit with a solid reputation in terms of results on these cars.
Again, I strees that you go through your article and correct the many things that are wrong with it. Maybe you learned alot since you wrote it. If you need some help PM me and I will help you correct it.
Last edited by nickm50; 04-23-2009 at 12:05 AM.
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