VAEM's SN95 264ci 4.3L V6 Mustang Build
#402
I'm hoping it will be ready for spring. We're going to pull the motor, dissassemble the top end and send the block and rotating assembly to an engine builder to piece it all together. Then when she's ready we'll bring her back, install the top end together and have her dyno'd.
This project is a lot of fun, but unfortunately, we have made some mistakes along the way. For anyone reading this thread it is SO IMPORTANT to have a clear plan of what you want from the start and stick to your plan. If not, you're going to spend more $$$ than you every would have with a plan. Case in point - we put together a solid 7.5 inch rear end. T-LOC, 3.73 gears, synthetic fluids, custom cover. It was more than enough for the 300 to 350 HP engine we were building. Throw in a last min decision for a stroker kit, forged internals, elevated boost. We'll ... 500 to 600 HP means that 7.5 inch rear end is going to snap in two the second the gas pedel gets mashed. Too bad. My mistake - just thought I'd take a moment to point out the set backs that slow a build down.
You're right about the box photo's. LOL. I'll take some shots of what the inside of those boxes looks like.
This project is a lot of fun, but unfortunately, we have made some mistakes along the way. For anyone reading this thread it is SO IMPORTANT to have a clear plan of what you want from the start and stick to your plan. If not, you're going to spend more $$$ than you every would have with a plan. Case in point - we put together a solid 7.5 inch rear end. T-LOC, 3.73 gears, synthetic fluids, custom cover. It was more than enough for the 300 to 350 HP engine we were building. Throw in a last min decision for a stroker kit, forged internals, elevated boost. We'll ... 500 to 600 HP means that 7.5 inch rear end is going to snap in two the second the gas pedel gets mashed. Too bad. My mistake - just thought I'd take a moment to point out the set backs that slow a build down.
You're right about the box photo's. LOL. I'll take some shots of what the inside of those boxes looks like.
#403
I'm hoping it will be ready for spring. We're going to pull the motor, dissassemble the top end and send the block and rotating assembly to an engine builder to piece it all together. Then when she's ready we'll bring her back, install the top end together and have her dyno'd.
This project is a lot of fun, but unfortunately, we have made some mistakes along the way. For anyone reading this thread it is SO IMPORTANT to have a clear plan of what you want from the start and stick to your plan. If not, you're going to spend more $$$ than you every would have with a plan. Case in point - we put together a solid 7.5 inch rear end. T-LOC, 3.73 gears, synthetic fluids, custom cover. It was more than enough for the 300 to 350 HP engine we were building. Throw in a last min decision for a stroker kit, forged internals, elevated boost. We'll ... 500 to 600 HP means that 7.5 inch rear end is going to snap in two the second the gas pedel gets mashed. Too bad. My mistake - just thought I'd take a moment to point out the set backs that slow a build down.
You're right about the box photo's. LOL. I'll take some shots of what the inside of those boxes looks like.
This project is a lot of fun, but unfortunately, we have made some mistakes along the way. For anyone reading this thread it is SO IMPORTANT to have a clear plan of what you want from the start and stick to your plan. If not, you're going to spend more $$$ than you every would have with a plan. Case in point - we put together a solid 7.5 inch rear end. T-LOC, 3.73 gears, synthetic fluids, custom cover. It was more than enough for the 300 to 350 HP engine we were building. Throw in a last min decision for a stroker kit, forged internals, elevated boost. We'll ... 500 to 600 HP means that 7.5 inch rear end is going to snap in two the second the gas pedel gets mashed. Too bad. My mistake - just thought I'd take a moment to point out the set backs that slow a build down.
You're right about the box photo's. LOL. I'll take some shots of what the inside of those boxes looks like.
#405
Not at all. All said and done, the engine costs are going to be just shy of $23,000.00. That includes the costs of the engine builder (for the rotating assembly) as well as the tuning costs. It also includes the cost of the Procharger setup and the nitrous (that's next). That's what a Stage 3, 600 to 700 HP, V6 Mustang costs. All said and done this build will cost between $40,000.00 to $50,000.00 bucks (engine, transmission, drivetrain, suspension, aerodyamics, rims and tires, paint, etc. etc.).
#406
Not at all. All said and done, the engine costs are going to be just shy of $23,000.00. That includes the costs of the engine builder (for the rotating assembly) as well as the tuning costs. It also includes the cost of the Procharger setup and the nitrous (that's next). That's what a Stage 3, 600 to 700 HP, V6 Mustang costs. All said and done this build will cost between $40,000.00 to $50,000.00 bucks (engine, transmission, drivetrain, suspension, aerodyamics, rims and tires, paint, etc. etc.).
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